Ultralight Shelters and Non-Adjustable Trekking Poles

[Matt Berzel]

Hi; I have noticed a lot of discussion on BPL about tarps, mids, and other ultralight shelters, and also a fair amount of discussion of non-adjustable (carbon) trekking poles.  One advantage of non-adjustable trekking poles is their lighter weight compared to the adjustable ones, so it is somewhat counter-intuitive for an ultralight shelter to require adjustable poles.  However, most ultralight shelters still require adjustable trekking poles.  Has anyone else encountered this?  Is there a list of shelters out there that can be set up using non-adjustable poles vs. adjustable ones?  I personally use Black Diamond Ultra Distance (120 cm) carbon fiber poles.

[Philip Tschersich]

I always carry non-adjustable poles and use them with my various MLD ‘mids (Solo, Duo, Super). You just use both poles and vary their relation to each other to adjust the height. I sewed my own system- a ‘cup’ of fabric slides over each handle with a velcro strap that captures the shaft of the other pole, with a lineloc and kevlar cord linking the two end ups. It works brilliantly. It looks kinda like this, but I think mine is prettier, and the link between the end cups is adjustable in length:

[JCH]

If your are slightly handy, it’s relatively easy to build a set of ~4.5oz each MYOG adjustable CF trekking poles that will be as light or lighter than the non-adjustable BDs.  See this post: https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/107571/page/2/#post-3374724. Using adjustable poles makes pitching a trekking pole supported shelter so much easier and allows more flexible site selection.

 

[John S.]

It may depend on what exact shelter you are talking about. If the pole is on the outside you can use anything. The problem is when the pole is on the inside and it is too long. For some extra length you can have the “too long” pole base off center so it is not straight up.

[Eli Zabielski]

Zpacks and probably some other companies make pole “jacks” to add length to your fixed length hiking poles. They come in various sizes for less than an ounce. http://www.zpacks.com/accessories/pole_jack.shtml

[jimmy b]

Now using a Zpacks duplex I can tell you that adjustable poles will allow for a much better pitch in some sketchy areas. We are squeezing this shelter into places I had never imagined before owning it. The ability to level the ridgeline with different height poles allows the rest of the shelter to set up so easily and uniformly.

Of course a shelter like the MLD mids as Philip mentioned is a much different scenario. Adjustable poles are not that big a deal.

If considering a duplex, +1 on  making your own adjustable CF poles. I am convinced after seeing Bob Moulders poles in the above link. Man those are some really nice MYOG bit of kit. Super light, very strong and they work great with a duplex. Keep in mind the number of sections needed and overall length if you plan to travel with them and need to pack them away in a suit case. Like other pieces of gear, we sometimes need a couple different options to cover all trips.

[Diane “Piper” Soini]

I have an older Gossamer Gear One (bought in 2008) and fixed length 125cm poles. Since you tilt the back one, it works out fine that they are the same length.

[JCH]

You can always make a fixed-length pole “shorter” by angling it, but there is a limit to the adjustability that provides…if it works for you then that is arguably the best solution.  I found MYOG CF poles to be the best solution as they are easy to build and you end up with *exactly* the pole configuration you want.  If you want a dedicated tent pole (not for trekking) you could also build a hybrid pole with several collapsable fixed length sections and an adjustable section on one end. BD sells their flick lock mechanisms for a pittance. If you go MYOG, you are not likely to save money over purchasing someone else’s product, but with a purchased product neither are you likely to have *exactly* what you want.

[Steve M]

If you are using fixed length poles (like me) you’re probably familiar with the “K.I.S.S.” rule.   Angling the pole works for my shelter (Gatewood Cape), but replacing the tie-out loops with 1/16″ shock cord also helps.  This gives you self adjusting tension for only a slight increase in weight.

[Diane “Piper” Soini]

To be more clear, the back pole on my tent is SUPPOSED to be angled.

[Rudy]

I have the same length trekking poles and use them with an MLD Solomid and found them to be a little short for a good pitch. I tried using an aluminum pole jack but the inside diameter was rather large for the tips of the Black Diamond Carbon Distance Z poles. The pole would not stay straight with the pole jack and would tend to bend the tip. I wound up making a pole jack from a carbon fiber tube, a tip from REI and some black duct tape. I measured the maximum diameter of the tip and chose a tube with the same (maybe a tiny bit smaller) inside diameter. The black duct tape was used to reinforce the tube. These pole jacks fit tightly and stay straight with the trekking pole. I also like the rubber tip so that the tube doesn’t get filled with dirt although a rock could also be used to save a little weight.

[Bob Moulder]

Another somewhat lighter alternative is to fill the pole jack tips with hot glue, inserting a tiny piece of foam in the end to act as a ‘dam’ to control how much glue is used.

My only concern with the BD Distance tips is that they are very short and the amount of cantilevered contact area between the pole tip and pole jack is quite small. Of course, if you take a Dremel to the baskets and remove them completely there will be a lot more tip length available to insert into a pole jack. But in the autumn you end up with an annoying, leafy shish-kebab, lol.

As long as the pole jack remains well aligned and not too much compression force is put on it, it should be fine. But it might not stand much side (bending) force without breaking off the tip.

[James L]

Fortunately, this is a NON ISSUE for me..
Why?
Because the Fizan 3pc Alumnium adjustable UL poles suit me fine at 53″ max length and 5.75 oz each …I have no need for anything lighter and they cost less than $60 shipped per pair :)
Just the materials ALONE to make good set of even fixed length CF poles costs more than that besides your time investement in making them.

If you buy a set of commercially made CF poles, they are about $150 shipped .

Thats nuttier than buying Cuben fiber shelter in terms of cost vs weight savings. IMHO..

[jimmy b]

Fizan 3 pc.     (super lights I assume)

Yes that is certainly a light set of poles however after having flick locks I wont be going back to twist locks. I also find cork handles to be more to my liking but the major mfg.s, at least Lekki which I carry now, will not guarantee their CF poles. This leaves me possibly making my own…. which I find is a very satisfying and educational way to spend some quality time. If I didn’t have the resources to do so the Fizans would certainly be worth a look.

As far as cuben shelters and being nutty…yeah! guilty as charged :)

[Bob Moulder]

Thats nuttier than buying Cuben fiber shelter in terms of cost vs weight savings. IMHO..

I continue to assert that the weight vs cost analysis is moot regards to UL backpacking gear because they are almost always inversely proportionate — and sometimes geometrically so at the extreme end of the scale. I would add an ‘IMO’ but that is generally factual and therefore not really an opinion. :^)

[Zack Freije]

I have a Tarptent, and used fixed length poles.

I purchased the 5oz Tarptent CF poles just in case…but haven’t used them yet.

My poles are longer than recommended which is definitely the harder option for my tent. However, it still works just fine for me honestly.

If the poles are too short, it’s not difficult to have an extender piece on the end to make up the difference.

My biggest concern personally is that my CF poles could bend or break during use in such a manner as to prevent me from setting up my tent. It hasn’t happened yet, but I do worry about it. My trekking poles are only 10 oz, but carrying another 5 oz is not something I really want to do…I suppose I could always just bring one with me…

There are slightly lighter trekking poles available, but they are quite pricey and I’m not yet convinced it’s worth it for me.

[Bob Moulder]

My biggest concern personally is that my CF poles could bend or break during use in such a manner as to prevent me from setting up my tent. It hasn’t happened yet, but I do worry about it.

In wooded areas a stick can usually be found that will serve the purpose.

Also, CF doesn’t bend, it breaks! (Although the cheap, pultruded CF crap can buckle and splinter into an ugly mess… good woven stuff won’t.)

In the case of MYOG poles, there is always material left over that can be used to make some splints for field repair. The larger diameter fits on the outside of the lower section and the smaller diameter fits on the inside of the upper section. These will work fine unless the break occurs less than about 1.5 inches from the end. Use cyanoacrylate (Krazy glue) and/or duct tape to secure them. The splints below are about 4″ long.

 

[Zack Freije]

Why would the trekking poles break when being used for the tent? The guy lines that create the tension on the poles are adjustable in length.

Whether your poles are long or short, the tent applies the same force to them.

The only issue you run into is that your tent may not hang all the way down to the ground from the fly, causing the bottom footprint to be slightly smaller. But you can fix that by increasing this length.

[Bob Moulder]

Why would the trekking poles break when being used for the tent?

Hmm… I don’t know where this comes from because I was referring directly to your mention of them breaking “during use,” which I interpreted to mean “while hiking,” thereby preventing them from being used to pitch the tent.

However, it is still entirely possible to break poles when they’re being used for supporting a tent. I’ve accidentally bumped into mine and my dog has leaned against them hard enough to cause some concern, and in the case of an inverted V pitch, such as a Duomid, it is also possible for strong wind and heavy snow loads to break poles. This is why in the winter I revert to my much heavier REI (Komperdell) Powerlock poles, which are much more robust.

[Zack Freije]

oh, got it.

Well I did “bend” a Black Diamond ultra distance Z pole at the aluminum insert between sections once. It still works just fine, but it does concern me.

[Bob Moulder]

That’s actually a good argument for making fixed-length poles in one section. Pretty much hell for inconvenience for travel and storage, but if a multi-section pole breaks at the ferrule it will require an outer splint to repair in the field. Or some clever work-around.

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