Standard detail for a Dyneema ridge seam?

[DAVE DREHER]

So after being corrected in the post below, I did get an order in for my 0.51oz dyneema!

So here is how I was going to attack it, for the perimeter I was going to sew a simple folded seam, seems like this is how zpack and HH do it.      I’d glue all the reinforcements, seems to be lots of coverage and details on this floating around.

My question is the ridge?  I like the idea of a no-sew solution.   I’m thinking a somewhat felled seam.  I’d use double stick tape.  First tape would tape together, second tape would be a fold.  Do you think that is going to be enough?    For belt and suspenders, I thought about using the cuben 1-inch tape for a third tape, so basically over the fold?    But if this is not needed, don’t want to add the additional weight.

So what are other folks doing?  Fairly expensive material, only want to do this once, LOL

 

[DAVE DREHER]

Also, this will be a flat tarp, for dimensions it will be approximately 8×8.

[Mario Caceres]

I have made a couple of shelters with Cuben Fiber.   A hexagonal base mid (Similar to the old Golite Shangrila 3) and a square regular tarp.  There is not a single stitch in my shelters.  They are only bonded / taped.  For my structural seams (the ones that join panels) I have used simple overlap seams (1″ overlap).  This has worked well in my case, after several years of use,  I yet have to see any problem with the seams.  i have to admit that from this two shelters I have use the Hexagonal Pyramid the most, I mention this as I understand the seams on a Pyramid type of shelter are subject to lower stress than on regular tarp.  My understanding is that bonding/taping is stronger in sheer than in peel, so unless you use sewing as part of your seam construction, I would use simple overlap seams.

Here is my mid

And my Rectangular Tarp.

[Brook / MtGL]

I agreed that a simple overlap seam (boding) is fairly enough for the ridge line of a tarp. There won’t be much force on the ridge line at its middle. The areas subject to force are the tie-outs , especially the two main pull-outs. I’m relatively conservative, so I prefer sewing at the tie-outs.

[Mario Caceres]

Yes, tie outs are quite important.  A lot of stress concentrated in a very small area.  Although sewing seems the more prevalent way to deal with them, some folks (like me) have also used bonding only methods..

Not sure you have seen this post, but it shows how Steve B worked with  Flat Carbon Tieouts.  I have used something similar for my tarp, but instead of using Flat Carbon I used polycarbonate, which I got on my local Tap Plastics. (You can actually get away just by getting some samples of polycarbonate or small pieces from their scrap bin)

I also did the finger configuration to help spread the forces applied on the tieout, but this may be overkill.  I got that idea from some posts on this forum as well.

[DAVE DREHER]

Thanks!  That’s a great link too.  Think I can make something work from that.

[Ryan Smith]

A 1″ wide ridgeline as noted above will be fine. Some of the cottage guys will also overlay that with a wider piece of cuben(one side of adhesive only).

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