Sewing Machine for Light MYOG and Repairs?

[Brad W]

Any recs for a sewing machine for light gear repairs-sewing horizontal straps to backpack shoulder strap, hemming edges of material for myog ground cloth, etc. I have never sewed but have needed/wanted too many times. This wouldn’t see heavy use. 1/month at the most. Thanks.

[Monte Masterson]

Janome makes great sewing machines for the money. They’re a Japanese company and just like Japanese car makers they don’t produce junk. The Sewist 721S is marked way down right now at sewingmachinesplus for $279. It would be perfect for what you have in mind. Anything cheaper and you’re going to get Walmart type garbage with plastic gears that don’t last.

https://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/001sewist721.php

[Brad W]

Thank you. I will look at these.

[Monte Masterson]

A cheaper machine would maybe get you by with light usage. It’s just that long term plastic gears give way, especially when you try to sew heavier stuff. Walmart carries the low end Singer and Brother models. If you need any help getting started just inquire here on BPL. I’m just an amateur but there are a number of talented MYOG people on this site.

[Philip Tschersich]

I don’t own one (I have a Sailrite Ultrafeed and a Bernina 1001), but the inexpensive and humble Singer Heavy Duty 4411 seems to get good reviews. I have watched a tear down video or two by sewing machine repair shops on youtube and they seemed to think the internal components and chassis were pretty solid. It handles heavy thread and stout needles if needed, and has all the basic stitches and needle positions covered.

RipStopByTheRoll:

“The Singer 4411’s features, reliability, and precision make it one of the best starter machines on the market. With great features like a variety of stitches, adjustable needle position, stainless steel bed plate, and top loading drop-in bobbin, it has everything you need without a lot of extra gimmicks.

As one of the most popular machines in the world you can find an endless variety of videos, recommendations, replacement parts, presser feet, manuals, and more.

We wouldn’t recommend anything that we wouldn’t also use.”

If I were in the market for a starter machine, I’d try one.

[Greg Pehrson]

+1 to Philip’s suggestion. I worked at an elementary/middle school that had a Singer Heavy Duty 4411. It lasted through years of student projects (and me sewing a couple backpacks and several other projects on it).  It can zigzag, do bartacks, sew through webbing and multiple fabric layers easily, and part of the casing slides away to make it into a free arm machine, which is really handy for backpack making.

Also, if you only plan on sewing occasionally, check to see if your public library has a “Library of Things.” These are growing in popularity as a way for folks to borrow sewing machines, cordless drills, ukeleles, movie projectors and inflatable screens, etc, to test out a new hobby or for a one-off project/event.

[Geoff Caplan]

In my experience you’re far better to get a classic mechanical Singer machine from the 1930s-50s period.

They are beautifully engineered, simple to self-service, there’s a thriving market in spares and accessories, and you can download user and service manuals from the web.

I have a straight-stitch 201, regarded by many as the finest machine ever made. In its day it cost 3 months worth of the average industrial wage – Singer had to invent hire-purchase so people could afford it! In the UK you can pick up a serviced example for around USD 175. I upgraded to a good Taiwanese motor for another $40 or so as the original motors are underpowered. If you get a hand-cranked one, it’s a 5 minute job to bolt on a motor. It doesn’t clatter like other machines, it hums and it’s a positive pleasure to use. You can add a zigzag accessory, but they’re a bit tricky to use.

If you really need zigzag and bar tacking, you could try my other machine – the Singer 237. It’s not as refined as the 201, but it’s a workhorse that won’t let you down. You can pick up clean examples very cheaply or do as I did and renovate an attic find off eBay. I spent a total of $100 on my two beasts, plus the motors.

Another classic straight stitcher is the Singer 66, which would survive a nuclear attack.

Compared to the plastic electronic tat you’d be buying new in this price range, these vintage Singers are a world apart – it’s like comparing a Lada to a Rolls Royce, and I’m not exaggerating.

[Brad W]

Thanks Geoff. I like the vintage route.

[Jerry Adams]

I’ve used my Janome a lot without problems – multiple tents, sleeping bags, shirts, pants, jackets,….  An obsolete model but they have similar models now.  Maybe a cheaper one with fewer features to break.

The plastic gears haven’t been a problem.  Maybe if you were professional it would be different.

I remember my mom’s vintage machine – she would lubricate it with oil at maybe 20 places.  My Janome has sealed bearings that don’t need servicing.  I vacuum it occasionally.

My mom had an earlier treadle machine that was cool

Just another experience

[Geoff Caplan]

The machines I listed are just the tip of the iceberg – there’s a whole world of fine machines out there at modest price points – especially if you’re prepared to do them up yourself. In contrast to the throwaway entry-level machines of today, these are heirloom machines literally designed to last for generations.

Singers are probably the easiest place to start, because they are so universal and there’s easy access to spares, accessories, manuals, online advice and real-world service engineers.

Another popular Singer classic is the Singer 15-91, which was popular with US farming families because of its ability to deal with heavy materials. Singer stores used to demonstrate its qualities by sewing through a tin can…

Other brands popular in Europe are Jones, Pfaff and Husqvarna. Early mechanical Toyotas and Kenmores can also do the job, though they are a bit less romantic, along with a number of other brands. The US may be a bit different – you’d have to do your own research.

There’s a whole sub-world of all-metal mechanical machines. YouTube is your friend.

[Monte Masterson]

Main thing is to just get started sewing. You might not want to spend much early so you can see if you’re going to like it. Often times super deals can be found on local craigslists or FB marketplace.

I’d suggest playing around with scrap materials at first until you get a feel for sewing. Tension and stitch length are something you’ll need get a handle on before working with expensive fabrics.

Savings you’ll get from repairing clothes and gear will pay for a low-price machine in a short order, not to mention all the mods you’ll be able to do. Make sure the machine you buy has both the zigzag and bar tack features.

 

[Geoff Caplan]

You can also use a zigzag attachment on straight stitch machines. They are OK for bartacking too. Especially if you get a low shank machine, as accessories are cheaper and easier to find. But they are a bit of a faff.

My Singer 237 does everything you’d need. You get a good straight stitch, and a zigzag that you can adjust for bar tacks. You get the ability to move the needle to the left and right, which can help with accurate zippers and the like. You get the ability to adjust the grip of the dog feeds, which can help when you move from fine coated fabrics to thick pack fabrics. It’s easy to work on. Spares are plentiful and affordable. The manuals are online.

It was one of the last machines before Singer started cutting corners to compete with cheap Japanese imports – so it has modern features but the old-style tough mechanics. It doesn’t have the weird slanting shank of the Rocketeers of the same period which make accessories hard to find, and it isn’t collectable so you don’t pay a premium price. You could do a lot worse…

They are plentiful on eBay.com right now from $40 up.

You can upgrade the old motor and pedal to a good Taiwanese YDK motor for another $35. This gives you safe electrics, more power and more accurate control Make sure you get the version with the port to power the light. Fitting is a 5 minute job. There are a number of Chinese knock-offs so buy the motor from a reputable supplier and they will help you choose the right model.

[Wesa R]

I completely agree with Geoff about the old Singers. Refurbishing an old machine is really simple. A little mineral spirits, steel wool, WD40 and some oil is all you need. But beware, one risks becoming a collector of old sewing machines.

One of the big upsides of these old straight stich machines is the lack of features. For a beginner there are very few settings that will confuse.

I have sewn backpacks, tents, sleeping bags and whatnot with my old 66 treadle. I do have a 15-91, a couple of 201’s and a few more but I tend to use the 66 due to its simplicity. The 15-91 comes out only for backpack work.

Cheers /W

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