Replacing floor section of Duplex

[Robert Richey]

After experiencing a substantial leak in my beloved retrofitted Duplex during a huge storm I eventually discovered that the source of the leak was the central section lengthwise corresponding to where my pad typically sits. I have never found any problem with the canopy after a good 6-7 years of use. I always used polycro beneath the tent and now believe the leak may have been caused by abrasion from the pad moving around on the floor as I am sometimes a restless sleeper. So what ideas do folks have for repairing this area? What material can I use to avoid recurrence of the leakage? Can I use tape and not sew anything? Can I cut out the leaking area to save weight and added packed volume?

[Murali C]

One solution would be to get rid of the floor and bug netting. And then use a Borah gear bivy with a DCF floor or maybe even a silnylon floor. This might actually save you weight and volume. But not everybody likes a bivy. I did this to my Altaplex tent to have a tarp which can be paired with a bivy or a DCF bathtub floor.

Cut the entire floor right upto 1 or 2 inches of the bathtub that connects to the bug netting and replace with a Triplex groundsheet and tape it to the leftover 1 to 2 inches. This way, your floor is completely one piece. And you still have the bug netting. Though you have to be careful to make sure the bug netting is taut after replacement.

Or just cut the portion that is leaking and add an 0.8 oz DCF section and tape it. Expect to keep changing it every few years.  Only issue here is you could fray the tape perhaps with your movements.

[Jerry Adams]

is the floor made of silnylon or polyurethane nylon?

if it’s silnylon, then you could recoat with silicone/mineral spirits 1:5 or 1:10

[Murali C]

floor is 1 osy DCF

[James Marco]

If the floor is leaking, I would suggest a coat of thinned silicone caulk as Jerry mentioned.  Abrasion leaves tiny “feathers” on the material. Silicone will adhere to the abraded areas. Maybe not good material, though. But, hell, if the goal is a dry floor, try it. Worse that can happen is you need to cut it out and replace it…which is what has been suggested.

I did one Zpacks one several years ago, it worked fine for another 2 years. I also did a polyurethane one. It still hasn’t leaked after four years. It seems by doing both sides, anyplace that wets through as you are brushing, bonds on the OTHER side, when you do it. This is exactly what you want. The leaks will be “micro-caulked.” Good material, well, it simply rubs off. You have nothing to loose except a few dollars in paint supplies and some time.

[Jerry Adams]

There must be some product to re-coat polyurethane

That could work better?

You can thin polyurethane, like seam grip, with toluene (lacquer thinner), but that stuff is noxious.  Definitely do outside.  Maybe wear carbon filter even then.  It dries very quickly so you’d have to be fast.

[James Marco]

Well, I never tried it.
But, DCF is a polyethylene. I don’t think it would stick at all.

 

[Sam Farrington]

Robert,

The product page states the floor is a bathtub shape made out of DCF, 1 oz/sq/yd, as Murali stated.  One oz DCF is pretty hefty stuff,  The product page says it can be repaired with tape sold by Zpacks.

But it sounds like the leaks are due to abrasion, not tearing or damage.  Are the abraded areas small?  If so, the Zpacks tape might stop the leaking.  If not, a Zpacks ground sheet instead of your polycro might work.  (43″ x 88″ (109 cm x 223 cm) / 3.1 oz    It might even be trimmed to fit inside the old bathtub floor and stabilized with a few beads of Loctite Hysol U-09FL if Zpacks does not have an adhesive lighter and less viscous.  Allow >72 hours for curing.

Please note that if you use polycro underneath, it must not extend beyond the borders of the floor because once heavy rain gets between the polycro and the DCF, your body weight will generate a lot of pressure, which could also create leaks.

Your might also tape in a new bottom to the floor of lighter DCF; however the perimeter taping might be a lot to handle.  But if you do, use tape from Zpacks that is as light and flexible as they have.

T’wer me, I would ask Zpacks if they could replace the old floor with a new one.

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