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Polartec Alpha Direct 4004 and Argon 49 for summer blanket/quilt?


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Home Forums Gear Forums Make Your Own Gear Polartec Alpha Direct 4004 and Argon 49 for summer blanket/quilt?

Viewing 10 posts - 51 through 60 (of 60 total)
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  • #3811080
    Jerry Adams
    BPL Member

    @retiredjerry

    Locale: Oregon and Washington

    One thing bad about 2.5 ozyd2 apex is it tends to have thin places without much insulation.

    For a vest, I’ve been using 3.5 ozyd2 apex which seems better.

    But, for a quilt, it has so much area, it gets too heavy and bulky with 3.5 ozyd2 apex.  So, maybe 2.5 ozyd2 is better.  Maybe buy an extra yard or two so you can select a section that has fewer thin places.

    Although, another conclusion might be that down is better

    #3811082
    Terran Terran
    BPL Member

    @terran

    When using a minute amount of down, how do you keep it from shifting without creating multiple sewn thru baffles?

    #3811088
    Jerry Adams
    BPL Member

    @retiredjerry

    Locale: Oregon and Washington

    For example, if I want 1 inch loft, then I’ll have 2 inch wide baffles.

    And weigh my down and have maybe 30% overstuffed. For example, 1 inch loft and 2 inch wide baffles that are 50 inches long, that would by 100 cubic inches.  800 fp down would require 0.125 ounces of down.  For 30% overstuffed, that would be 0.16 ounces of down per baffles.  Then, the down doesn’t shift too bad and keeps the baffles filled.

    Maybe even 50% overstuffed.

     

    #3811089
    Jerry Adams
    BPL Member

    @retiredjerry

    Locale: Oregon and Washington

    #3811090
    Jerry Adams
    BPL Member

    @retiredjerry

    Locale: Oregon and Washington

    #3811092
    Jerry Adams
    BPL Member

    @retiredjerry

    Locale: Oregon and Washington

    That’s how I do baffles now.  That’s a 1 foot square sample with 2 inch baffles.

    On one side the baffles are 2 inches wide.  On the other side they’re 3.2 inches wide.

    You get the ease of construction of sewn through baffles, but the thermal performance of box baffles

    I’ve mentioned this before but no one has been adventurous enough to try it.  Maybe that means it’s not a good idea :)

    #3811093
    Jerry Adams
    BPL Member

    @retiredjerry

    Locale: Oregon and Washington

    If anyone were to try that, do a test piece, like the 1 foot square piece above to figure it out and evaluate whether it would make sense for a real project

    #3811101
    Bill Budney
    BPL Member

    @billb

    Locale: Central NYS

    Jerry, Your sewn-through post makes it look easy. Nice.

    I’m not sure that I understand the baffle concept. Is that basically sewn-through with 60% extra fabric on the top layer to make the tubes?

    That also sounds easier than cutting and sewing baffles.

    #3811102
    Jerry Adams
    BPL Member

    @retiredjerry

    Locale: Oregon and Washington

    Exactly.  60% extra fabric on the top.

    Yeah, easier than cutting a bunch of strips

    #3811118
    Monte Masterson
    BPL Member

    @septimius

    Locale: Southern Indiana

    “Yeah, easier than cutting a bunch of strips.”

    Dutchware sells precut .67 noseeum baffle strips 1.5 “, 2.5″ and 3.5” wide and they’re dirt cheap at 10 cents to 18 cents per foot. https://dutchwaregear.com/product/no-see-um-baffle/

    But I think David M wants to make an inexpensive synthetic quilt and even the cheapest 800 fp duck down is $25 for 3 oz.  A 50* quilt could be done with 6 oz down but I think sewn through would be the best technique with such a high temp rating, which is why so many manufacturers do exactly that. Sewn through keeps the small amount of down in place better…optimizes down control.

    Montbell #5 (long) wrap with square sewn though chambers and 5.6 oz 800 goose down. 10d shell. https://www.montbell.us/products/disp.php?cat_id=14009&p_id=1121335

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