Newbie question Pfaff 6091 VS Brother CS6000i

[DAVID M]

All,

Brand new on here, but not new to forums.  Been reading numerous threads on which machine for DIY gear, and still have a question I can’t figure out.  There is a Pfaff 6091 I can buy used from craigslist for $300, or the Brother new for $200.

I plan to sew UL materials, CF, silnylon etc. and would like to know which machine will be better for my needs.  Please understand-I know literally nothing about sewing, but my mother in law does.  So I am leaning on this community for the machine to do it, then will let her school me up.

I do know the material slipping is an issue, as we tried on her machine and it was ugly.

Thanks in advance!

Dave

[AG]

i have the Brother and while it’s lightweight and inexpensive, i have successfully made lots and lots of myog on it. it can do bar tacks and button holes — although it’s a bit fussy and you have to set the stitching correctly.

the things i’ve found the Brother *can’t* do very well are:
–sew through multiple layers of heavy fabric (ex: a heavy gauge DCF like 5.0oz DCF Hybrid, but also something like heavy canvas or denim). i’ve only ever had this problem when sewing the bottom on backpacks, since most other ul gear entails extremely thin fabrics.
–sew edge tape (ex: like around the perimeter of HMG pack shoulder straps). i’ve tried several different foot attachments and never got this to work very well. it’s also probably just too many layers and too thick.

otherwise i’ve made all these things on my Brother: packs, quilt, tarp, bivy, shelter insert, jacket, wind pants, wind shirt, etc.. all using DCF and nylon

so if you want a “beginner” machine, the Brother will be just fine for you. i know nothing about the Pfaff but it’s probably good too (just make sure it can do bar tacks!)

[Jerry Adams]

can you just use her machine?

the slipping issue is not so much a machine issue, but a technique issue.  Practice on some long strips.

mark a line on each piece where you want the row of stitches to be.  Pin or put a hand stitch several places.  As you sew along, keep the two pieces of fabric aligned.  Hold the two pieces together with thumb and finger as it feeds into the machine.

[DAVID M]

Thank you for the info.  I would prefer to buy a new machine than possibly get something used that doesn’t work and costs more.

We did use her machine, and sewing 2 pieces of silnylon didn’t go well.  We even used seamtape.  My goal was to have a waterproof seam and it didn’t come out well.  She mentioned needing different needles, and several other terms I am not familiar with.

I plan to make several items, and don’t mind spending $200 to have my own machine, and the right one for the job.

[DAVID M]

I also would like to be able to sew cordura to silynylon, and make it as waterproof as possible.  I think this is when her needles kept breaking.

[Roger Caffin]

You can break needles if you pull the fabric from one side. This bends the needle slightly. The tip of the needle then hits the support plate and ‘ping’.

If the fabric skews in a seam, it is because it is not restricted enough. You need to hold the fabric with two hands, front and back, and to let your hands ‘float’ while maintaining good tension along the seam. Takes some practice – on scrap bits of fabric.

Sewing heavy material is another matter. Your machine may not have the drive or torque needed to push the needle through. Just getting the needle moving may also be hard. You can push the needle through a very heavy spot by cranking the wheel on the right by hand. That works fine for a few stitches, but gets a bit tiring over any length.

In an extreme case the needle might not be strong enough. In that case you need to use a heavier needle. These are available in any sewing shop, and mostly they all have the same fitting. Take a current needle with you to check. I use needles from #60 (light) to #100 gauge (leather), and do have heavier.

For heavy canvas and webbing you may need a heavier machine. The gold standard for this is an OLD black Singer, straight stitch and no zigzag. I sew canvas and leather with it, but can also sew light silk with it. A wonderful machine.

If you are going to sew heavy stuff, you will need a heavier thread. Ordinary domestic thread will not be strong enough. The gold standard here is what is called ‘bonded nylon’ thread. This is better than ‘button thread’. Your shop may have to get it in for you. It is what I use on canvas and leather.

Cheers

[DAVID M]

All-

Many thanks for the info.  I have decided to purchase the Brother cs6000i.  I prefer my projects to be done on my equipment, as I tick off my mother in law enough, don’t need to add trashing her machine to the list!

[DAVID M]

I was at the local Joann fabric place asking lots of questions.  I didn’t get a solid answer from the woman there on what needles I should get for my machine (Brother CS6000i) and specifically for my first project, sewing silpoly and silnylon.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Jerry Adams]

size 70 needle for thin fabric

size 90 for thicker fabric

I use Microtex needles

if you can adjust the tension so the stitch looks the same on top and on the bottom then you’re good

I have a Janome machine.  There was some brand of needles that kept dropping stitches until I switched to Microtex.

Or, maybe when I switched to microtex, I coincidentally also adjusted the tension properly : )

[Roger Caffin]

I use #60 for silnylon on an ELNA. It makes smaller holes. Breakages are very rare. OK, for typical cotton quilting fabrics with no coating I would use either #70 or if the fabrics are heavy #80. I use #100 on webbing, heavy canvas and leather (on the Singer, not on the ELNA).

Now, skipping stitches. That is a subtle problem with several main causes. I will assume that you have suitable needles, which is most likely.

The first reason is the most common: there is not enough downward spring tension on the presser foot. If the foot shows any sign of lifting while the needle rises, then increase the spring tension. This has nothing to do with that part of the cycle where the foot lifts so the fabric can advance. The needle is lifting the fabric so that there is no thread loop forming underneath for the rotating ‘hook’ to catch. This is especially a problem with heavy fabrics and light machines. You may not be able to get enough spring force on light machines to handle heavy fabrics.

The second, less likely, is that the needle is not properly inserted. It must be in the right way and fully inserted. A needle in back to front will often cause this. Many machines have a shaped hole for the needle so you can’t put it in wrongly.

The third reason is that the synchronisation between the needle and the rotating hook is wrong. This is possible, but very uncommon. Fixing it would require a sewing machine mechanic who knows what he is doing. It is unlikely in your case if the machine only skips occasionally.

Cheers

[Jerry Adams]

I’ve done that before.  The needle has a flat side that supposed to face the rear of the machine, but I had it facing the front.  (It seems like they should make it idiot proof so you can’t do that)

Then it dropped stitches until I put it back in correctly.

There’s a little groove in the side of the needle that’s supposed to face to the rear

[Roger Caffin]

a little groove in the side of the needle that’s supposed to face to the rear
Unless it faces to the side. Some machines do it that way.
But anyhow, the thread goes into the eye of the needle from the side with the long groove.

Cheers

Cheers

[Eric Blanche]

Number 9 needle size with tera80 thread works well for <1oz fabrics such as membrane silpoly, m7, m10 sleeping bag materialss, dcf .5-.75.

Size 10-12 needles and Mara70 works decently well for up to ~100d 3 oz fabrics.

For reinforcement areas, bindings, and heavier fabrics I stick to size 14 and up with Tera 60.

 

I think this is a good start and covers most domestic type sewing. I use bonded nylons/polys on most of my projects nowadays, though.

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