MYOG backpack – lessons learned?

[Adam G]

I’m about to embark on my first pack build, which is the biggest sewing project I’ve undertaken so far. My goal is to try the Vincent Koender’s design as a first go, with a prototype initially made out of Tyvek because it’s relatively inexpensive. I then plan on making a second prototype modifying it based on how that goes and making some changes that I want. Finally, I want to make the finished product out of X-Pac. This is going to be a huge learning experience for me, rewarding and frustrating.

One of my concerns is about durability of the pack, with it completely falling apart as stitching just rips out. I’ve had this happen on some other projects due to flaws in the sewing strategy or general sewing quality.

I’m curious, what are people’s advice on this? Anyone learn any lessons from making their packs? So far, people have advised me to use an X box stitch on any straps that would experience high loads and to double stitch any seams in the main body, either by doing some sort of flat fell or adding binding tape. I’ve looked at my commercial grade packs, and most of them seem to use some sort of finishing tape. My ULA Catalyst uses it in other places such as the hipbelt.

With the latter, I have no idea exactly what to use, whether it should be the sticky type or using a presser foot and ironing and folding (I think I’m not skilled enough to do it by hand).

[Jerry Adams]

good project

I’ve used bar tack, then apply polyurethane like Seam Grip on both sides to strengthen the seam and also waterproof it

Use it to waterproof other seams

A problem with it is it will stick to itself after it dries, so you have to rub a powdery substance like talc or clay (or dirt from wherever) on it

That X box attachment should also work, there’s some BPL article about it.

[R]

Grosgrain ribbon is common for finishing pack seams.  You could also just use strips of pack material with the edges folded in.

[Matt]

My advice – keep things simple!

• Trust your stitches. Don’t over-sew. You weaken fabric by punching too many holes in it.
• X-Box stitching is strong but a challenge to keep looking good.  If you pack light, you probably don’t need to employ this technique.  I use a few parallel lines of triple stitching and have never experienced a blow-out or even stretched fabric.
• On the main pack body, just sew two parallel lines of stitches.  The second will be your safety net.  Forget tapes and glues.  Unnecessary, messy, heavy, and time-consuming.  Save this fancy finish work for future iterations.
• Oh yeah, and keep things simple!

Best of luck!

[Greg Pehrson]

+1 to Matt’s advice.

Black thread on a black fabric hides a lot of stitching imperfections, especially X-box stitching :)

Use a generous seam allowance–I use at least a 1/2 inch, sometimes a full inch, depending on how heavy-duty I want the pack.

I think we’ve come to expect that clean look of grosgrain-bound seams inside a pack from seeing lots of companies use it, but it’s not necessary, in my opinion. Its main purpose is to encase the raw edges of the pack fabric to keep it from fraying and to make it look neater, and for companies with the right equipment it’s quicker and easier to sew than flat-felling their seams which is super strong but can be hard to do depending on the design, the material, and your sewing machine. If you’re using a fabric that frays, you can cut it with a hot knife or singe the edges with a flame and just double-stitch it like Matt says.

Also, it’s easy to get stuck in analysis paralysis of wanting to make the perfect pack the first time you build one, because you’ll keep second guessing and finding new interesting ideas and doing more research and putting the build off into the future. Sew one up, use it, and let your experience guide future builds.

Have fun!

Greg

[Author]

Posts