Designing a large tipi

[Rachel P]

I’m working on making an 8-man, 8-sided tipi. I’m almost done sewing up a hex 1-2 person tipi as my first project (I have to redo the zipper…fun and make a peak still).

I’ve started working on a laser cut file for the big tipi using Illustrator. My plan is to pay Ripstop by the Roll to laser cut it because I didn’t enjoy cutting the fabric with the first project.

I wanted to share my layout and see if you all have any feedback. Each piece of the eight-sided tipi will have a horizontal seam about halfway up, so each side is composed of a trapezoid and a triangle. I added in some curve. I added seam allowances for the everything but the bottom hem. I think it will be fine 1/2″ shorter and this seems to work with the constraints of the fabric pretty nicely.

I’m planning on using XL Silpoly so it won’t be a super stretchy fabric. It’s 72″ with selvedge, 70″ usable. My pieces are 70″ wide, the bottom of the tipi (bottom of the trapezoid) is 75″.

[Paul McLaughlin]

How much curve did you use on the edges? I would be thinking something that would put the middle of the curve at least 2 inches away from the straight line. And be prepared to increase that during construction; sew it up, set ip it to test, and redo the seems to add more curve if it seems to need it to get a tight pitch.

Will your door zipper run up a seam? If not, you could have RSTBR cut that line as well.

Are you doing any vents?

[Jerry Adams]

How much do they charge to cut?

It’s a pain to cut large pieces, accurate cuts would make it set up better

[Rachel P]

I have their price sheet, I can email it to you if you send me your info in a msg. They have a laser machine hourly price but also file prep fees (which I’m hoping to avoid by making my own Auto CAD vector file — Illustrator will export the right format).

[Rachel P]

I should double check how much curve I added in. I just guessed at the curve in illustrator. I should figure out how to measure the distance from the original straight lines to check that I added enough in.

The zippers will run up the seams, I’ll have two zippers and both will be two-way so you can unzip from the top.

A vent is a good question and one I have not thought about much yet but I should. I have a Seek Outside Redcliff and it has a vent, but the wire gets smooshed frequently when packed. I’ve been wondering if there is an easier way to make the vent part of the zipper opening at the top of the tipi. I’ll also put in a stove jack of course.

I also want to do removable mesh doors. I have mesh doors in my Redcliff but in the winter I wish I didn’t have them. But they are a must have in the summer. I know TiGoat has removable mesh doors so I need to figure out the attachment system sooner rather than later. I was kind of thinking if there is enough tension vertically in the mesh I can use toggles or mitten hooks to attach it and the tension will keep it pretty flush. I’m mostly trying to keep out flying insects.

[Edward John M]

Rachel I own a Helsport lavvu in something around that size and shape.

My experience has been that to actually fit 8 people and be comfortable they need short walls, walls at least 15 inches high. Also because of the height the Helsport has 3 guy points built into each seam but for strong winds the expedition model lavvus use a large gusset a third of the way up.

Have you considered altering the cutting to make the base panel shorter and have them cut triangular panels to insert into the large horizontal seam?

Double and triple panels in the peak?

I am assuming that this tipi is for winter use

[Rachel P]

The tipi is definitely for winter use but I would use it year round. We enjoy floorless tents a lot now.

We don’t actually have to fit 8 people in it. We’d probably have up to four on cots with a stove (not exactly backpacking light, oops.) @moondog55, your design suggestions are interesting and I’m going to do some research based on your comments about the Helsport. I think I know what you are saying but need to see a picture to confirm! I’ve seen some of the tipis with short walls to add room/height at the perimeter.

In the warmer months I’d use it with my Girl Scout troop or for family camping. My  troop of mostly second graders love camping, especially in tipis, and my goal is to have tipis for everyone to stay in one (two to three would be enough.)

 

[Edward John M]

The Helsport have catenary cut seams and flare so the part of the floor closest to the edge cannot be used for anything and it is worse when the liner is fitted and much worse when I use cots taller than 150mm from the floor. I now know why the Scandinavians use round.tubular duffles for packing gear, the duffle goes hard up against the wall to increase clearance but it means the liner is touching the tent.

I am trying to sell my own Varanger Camp 8P to go up a size to the 12P version.

If the tent came with as short wall it would be hard to beat but altering a design like this after the fact isn’t possible. Digging down works IF you can find hard stable snow and make an extension for the centre pole tho.

I am having thoughts about something more like the old Mountain Hardwear Hoopster/Hoop dreams because of the steeper walls A friend has one with a stove added and it works very well until the wind gets strong

[Edward John M]

Rachel I have been thinking about this for my own use [ possibly] and had a wild thought.

If you would contemplate something other than an 8 sided tent would using Easton bent joiners in the “ring” work for you?

Just a wild thought there.

[Author]

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