Back packing Alaska

[Michelle B]

For the past couple  years I have been hiking the continental divide with my service dog. We are almost to Wyoming.

My dog is an actual service dog that I need with me because I have seizures.     (not a pet that I just want to take shopping)  I was devastated to learn that he has a mild elbow dysplasia that precludes him from long hikes. He is limited to about 5 miles per day. This August we will drive to Alaska and spend 4 weeks exploring and camping.

Can anyone recommend some10-15 mile trips that will be scenic bit not crowded?  I have purchased several hiking guides but they primarily list very popular trails.

Thank you!!

[Tallgrass]

Denali NP.  (Not sure what the dog policy is there, though.)  There aren’t any trails.  You choose backcountry units to hike in.  There is a park bus that goes down this one road that bisects the park and drops you off at your starting unit.  The park service limits the number of people in each unit.  I spent 7 days with my brother there back in 2005.  Except for the very first few hours where we hiked with another guy, we never saw another person the entire week.  An awesome trip!

[Michelle B]

Thank you,  that sounds great. I expected Denali to be crowded.

[Tipi Walter]

It’s hard to imagine vast Alaska has ANY rules anywhere on backpacking or how many backpackers can either enter an area or camp!  It’s like 4 times the size of Texas, right????

Heck, here in East TN and the mountains of NC we have no such rules.

[robert mckay]

• ketchimak bay outside of homer. Nice short hikes between sites. Need to take a water taxi to get there.
• Caines head outside of Seward.
• Hatchers pass near Palmer. There are sweet huts up there that are pretty close. Talk to the mountaineering club of AK about them.
• Kesugi ridge. It can be done in half. KILLER views of Denali and it’s in the state park not national.
• the wrangles are on the road system but are fairly remote.
• drive the Denali highway and take hikes from the road! That’s where my avatar pic was taken. Most only travel on the road.
• The devils slide trail going up to the resurrection is less busy, but goes to a beautiful part of the trail.
• Have a wonderful time :)

[AK Granola]

I suppose crowded means different things to different people, but I have hiked in many areas of Alaska and never found any to be crowded. I’m sure closer to Anchorage some day hike trails may be busier, but once you’re a few miles up the trail, I think you’ll find it’s pretty peaceful. Denali has more backpackers, and you have to have permits, dogs not allowed in the backcountry.  Still, other than on a tour bus, it doesn’t feel crowded to me.

I agree on the Denali highway suggestion, you could take your dog almost anywhere there. If you get as far north as Fairbanks, I recommend Kyle Joly’s book “Outside in the Interior.” Lots of good hikes described in detail, with maps, gps and milepost directions. Although many people have this book, I would still say I’ve rarely experienced being crowded here, other than at car campgrounds. Once you’re a few miles from a trailhead, you can feel very alone.

[Michelle B]

Thank you Karen.  I will definitely order the book that you recommend.

Michelle

[Dena Kelley]

As a lifelong Alaskan resident, my take is that most trails in Alaska are pretty deserted after the 3 mile mark. The tourists don’t typically go farther than that. And even in heavily congested areas (such as Flattop in Anchorage) you can generally something very close nearby and nearly empty. There are trailheads all over the place, and many aren’t on the maps or guidebooks- you just look for a turnout and generally a trail will be nearby. If you get into the Eagle River area, I’d be glad to point you in the direction of some trails where you might not see anyone at all, especially on a weekday.

 

[Michelle B]

Thank you for the information. I hope you realize I am going to be pestering you now that I know you are from Alaska. LOL I was hoping that most of the tourist type hikers wouldn’t make it very far. I noticed this at Yellowstone also.

I am driving so I will have a lot of options where I can go. I will have two dogs with me so the ferries are a possibility if I can get my car on but flying is not an option.

I plan to arrive in Alaska very early in August. The first thing on my itinerary was to drive the Haul Road and see Prudhoe Bay. I know there is a lot of public land up that way but I haven’t found a way on to it yet.

I will have about three-and-a-half to four weeks in Alaska so I wanted to get a feel for as much of it as I can. My Hope was to hit each of the major areas and go out for 2-3 night  packing trips at each of them.

I am in the map buying and early planning stage. I want to have some ideas of where I am going but I will be very flexible when I get there. I do hope to be in your area for at least a little while.

Can you comment on the weather and amount of visitors during the month of August?

Realizing that I will have 2 dogs and be limited to around 5 miles per day, are there any special places you would recommend?

Thanks so much for your help!

 

[Dena Kelley]

Pester away. There’s a few of us Alaskans on here and we all live in different areas so you should be able to get a broad perspective.

August is- usually- our rainy month in my area. And in the further northern parts of the state, can get quite cool and even get some snow. In my area it’s usually rainy, but last year’s August was pretty sunny and warm so you just never know.

The Haul Road is an adventure I haven’t had yet but have read accounts from others and sounds amazing. I think you’ll have a great time, and should find plenty of hiking opportunities along it. You’re not likely to find a lot of tourists along it, either.

Our tourist season is May thru September, but most of them stay on the beaten path between Seward and Fairbanks. If you drive at night, you’ll miss a lot of the annoying motorhome blockade traffic. LOL. Anytime in the summer I’m planning to drive for distance, I try to do it at night. It stays light, but most of the motorhomes will pull in the pullouts or campgrounds and go to sleep. It’ll be mostly you and the 18 Wheelers hauling freight.

The touristy places are going to be Seward, Kenai, Anchorage, Talkeetna, Denali National Park, Fairbanks, and a bit in Valdez. I don’t know if you plan to do anything on the panhandle but all of those cities- Juneau, Sitka, Skagway, Haines see tourist traffic. But it sounds like you don’t mind getting off the beaten path and for that you should be able to find lots of areas that are less crowded. And as I said earlier, once you get past mile 3 on most of the trails, the herd thins considerably. I hike all summer and have many days where I see absolutely no one at all. I like to hike the less traveled trails with my dogs.

If you need info on Alaska, I can swing by the Visitor’s Center and put together a box o’ brochures for you if you’d like and mail it to you.

[David Thomas]

I’m another of the Alaskan BPLers, living in Kenai, but I travel through the state.

I agree with Dena that most any pullout is a potential trailhead. What were originally game trails, survey lines or seismic surveys get used by hunters, dog teams and ATCs.

August is still tourist season. A bit less so because the big salmon runs are over, but hotel vacancies and car rentals are still expensive then.  And the roads are under construction and people are driving motor homes around. Early September is shoulder season and late September is off season, IMO.

I’ve driven to Prudhoe Bay several times. It’s a great road trip. 500-1000 miles of wilderness to your left and to the right the whole way.  Just park and start hiking. Don’t expect a trail. Warning: you can’t actually put your toe in the Arctic Ocean without signing up in advance for the oilfield tour – the last 9 miles is fenced off (since it’s an operating oil facility).

Check the documentation needed for dogs through Canada. Doable, just have the records with you.  The last 1000 miles of the Canadian part – through northern BC and all of YT is also fabulous.

[David Thomas]

Get “The Milepost” for $28-ish. Size of a medium phonebook, it details ALL the Alaskan and NW Canadian highways, mile by mile, where the sights, campgrounds, attractions, and services are. Down to a level of gravel borrow pits that make good rest areas / overnight camping.

Car camping all those highways is really easy because you’re allowed to camp most anywhere, and there are paid campgrounds with laundry and showers if you want to clean up every few days (you don’t need to stay there, – they’ll sell you a hot shower for $5).

[Michelle B]

I didn’t think I would have the luck of talking to people who actually live in Alaska. I did buy the milepost and have been pouring through that every night. A lot of what I have read is very specific to certain Parks or trails with lots of rules and laws attached. It sounds like that was a bit overstated. So my original plan was to be there primarily in August. What do you think about coming a few weeks later, say the end of August into September? I am pretty well prepared for the cold, I just received my — 25 degree feathered friend bag. I don’t mind some rain but it would be nice if it didn’t rain everyday.

Is it fairly safe to leave a car parked while camping? I’m not sure I would be up for hiking all the way back from the Haul Road if my car was stolen.

[David Thomas]

Michelle:

I’ve never had a problem leaving my car at trailheads in throughout Alaska, which I’ve done all along all those highways a few hundred times now.  I have seen warnings posted at a few parking areas right on the highway (Seward Highway along Turnagin Arm), 10-15 miles outside of Anchorage that there have been break ins.  I assume it is the proximity of those trailheads to a metropolitan area and the ease of pulling back on to the highway and darting away.

I’d suggest, in Alaska or anywhere: keep any valuables in the trunk.  Heck, have them in the trunk before you get to the trailhead, so anyone else present only sees you grab your pack from the back seat and go.  Leave some detritus in the car (wrappers, dirty clothes, dog bed) to give it that “lived in” and “junky” look.  Avoid parking behind a camper or other large vehicle that makes your car less visible from the road.

[Dena Kelley]

Car break-ins at trailheads near Anchorage/Mat-Su are becoming more common, along with the accompanying broken window. Outright car theft is more rare. And I doubt you’d have any problems at all like that along the Haul Road because thieves are inherently lazy and driving up the haul road would be too much work to look for victims. To avoid a break-in, David gave you good advice. Most people I know who have had their vehicles broken into had visible items to steal- a bag or purse, hiking/backpacking gear, binoculars, etc.

The two best months- typically- for travel to southcentral Alaska are going to be June/July in my opinion. August is generally wetter, as is September. But again, not always. We had a very sunny and warm August last year, and our spring has started early again this year (same as last year) so it might well be good weather. You can’t count on anything, anyway- I wouldn’t change your planned dates over possible weather.

Other parts of Alaska are going to be different. It’d be nice if we could get a person from Fairbanks to chime in. Do we have one? And has anyone seen Buck Nelson on here in a while? He’s got a lot of info.

[Michelle B]

Dena and David,

Thanks again for the input. I can’t make it much earlier than August because of harvestng crops on my farm at that time but rain or shine I am sure this is going to be an exciting trip for me and my boys. Thanks for the input about Trailhead safety. I had my car smashed in at a parking spot near Chama New Mexico two years ago. I had never worried about it before that.

Michelle

[David Thomas]

Since we get half our precipitation as rain in the Summer (the other half as snow in the Winter), I recommend guests have rain/shine plans.  In Seward, that could be rain: go to the aquarium, shine (actually, a calm marine forecast): take a day cruise of Resurrection Bay.  In Fairbanks and Anchorage, there are short hikes and indoor attractions should the weather be nasty one day.  And while on your road trip, if it’s nice weather, stay and hike another day.  If it’s stormy, make that a day to drive on to your next location.  For really solid weather, 24-hours out, I like the FAA’s Terminal Area Forecasts (enter the closest airport).  And Marine Forecasts before going out on the water.  Any number of apps purport to show weather for 7-10 days in advance, but I haven’t found them very accurate beyond 2-3 days.

In August, there will be road construction going on and there can be 10- to 20-minute delays, occasionally an hour and rarely for several hours if there is blasting.  While on vacation, that’s usually not a problem, but if you have a flight to make or time certain to arrive, check the DOT website for schedules of work: 511.alaska.gov

[Michelle B]

Dena and David ,

Last question….bears!!!!

I have never camped near grizzly bear before. I’m not sure if I am worrying too much or not enough. I bought an electric bear fence. Do you have opinions as to whether these work and are necessary?  I have a bear vault. Should I put this inside or outside of the fence.

Thank you,

Michelle

[David Thomas]

Short answer on bears: Noise.  Possibly pepper spray.

Longer answer: Noise weighs nothing (yell, sing, bang rocks) when you’re in an area of poor sight lines (hills, curves, brush), background noise (wind, water), and good habitat (berries, salmon stream, game trail).  The bear not seen because it heard you first is never a problem.  I think this is a major reason why attacks versus group size is so VERY much skewed.  Bears attack (rarely, still) primarily single and pairs of hikers.  Almost never larger groups.  There’s never been a fatality among a group over 4.  Because (I think), groups NEVER travel quietly.  I’m always surprising groups of hikers as I hike up to and through their group because in comparison to their noise, they don’t hear me coming.

While there are big emotions at play about guns and obvious reporting biases (“I fired my gun and survived so my gun saved my life” isn’t exactly a random, placebo-controlled study), Dr. Stephen Herraro and his fellow academic researchers who’ve dug through all the data for the last century report that human outcomes are better with pepper spray than with firearms (and obviously, ursine outcomes are MUCH better).  Also, pepper spray weighs about a pound with holster while any bear-capable gun weighs 7 pounds.  You can’t fatally injury yourself if you misuse pepper spray, no one can kill you with it, and it’s only worth $50 for someone to steal it from you versus $500-$1000 for a firearm. Check the rules about transportation through Canada.  If that’s ruled out or you are flying in, you can buy it at REI or Sportmen’s Warehouse or Walmart in Fairbanks or Anchorage or in most any outdoor / sporting goods store elsewhere.  Heck, at the grocery store in my town.

And here’s BPL’s own Erin and Hig dealing with a grizzly during one of their epic wilderness hikes (they go for months at time along 1000+ mile routes):

[David Thomas]

My riff on guns: .44 revolver? too small.  .454 or .500 revolver? Still too small and nearly impossible to shoot well.  12-gauge with slugs or a 300-Win-mag or better yet, a .338 Lapua?  Okay, that might stop a bear in time.  Alaska has the highest absolute number of bear fatalities of any state at 0.5/year and by far the highest per capita.  We also have very high per capita drunk-driving deaths at 43/year in a small population.  So I recommend skipping the gun and bringing a breath-a-lzyer when you drive to the trailhead – it’s 86 times more likely to be useful.

I don’t even bring gun on a black bear hunt (I go as a porter, meat hauler and camp cook).  I have carried a gun when being second banana on a grizzly hunt seeing as how we’re doing EVERYTHING wrong (going to where the bears are, being quiet, traveling upwind, and planning to piss it off).  Then I’ve carried a semi-auto 12-gauge with 1-ounce slugs while my buddy has his .338.

[David Thomas]

And since you mentioned a dog:  Dogs finding a bear, pissing it off, and coming back to you happens with some regularity.  The last mauling in my town was that scenario.

I trained my dog, who’s off-leash when we’re hiking, to return to me and get on leash when we encounter anything / anyone on the trail.  Partly as a courtesy to other hikers and also because her black coat freaks out some people since it’s the same color as the local black bears.  At first, I’d be calling her back when I perceived another party approaching and praising her and giving her a treat.  That quickly evolved into HER returning to get her treat when SHE perceived a party approaching and she can hear and smell them a LONG time before I do.

I’m glad to hear your dog is a real service dog (those folks with their self-appointed, ill-behaved “emotional-support” dogs or their $75 certificate and doggy vest to save on airline fees piss me off).  But I’d hesitate to recommend Denali NP with any dog.  Definitely check in advance what the regs are – the NPS has worked so hard to minimize human-bear interactions that I’d expect them to draw a hardline beyond actual trained service dogs.  And even if they let you take your dog, I’d prefer to take my dog somewhere the bears are hunted and therefore avoid humans.  Denali NP backpacking is all off-trail, over braided glacial streams and lots of it is in heavy brush.  There’s a lot of to keep track of, even without a dog along.

[Ian]

Disclaimer, I’m not an attorney or a Canadian.

I travel up to BC and Alberta every couple of years.  It may be due to my militaryesqe haircut and LEO demeanor, but when driving up, I get asked if I have pepper spray more often than not, more so than whether or not I have a gun.

I’ve heard mixed success stories on people bringing in Bear Spray in with them.  My understanding is that OC/Pepper spray for two legged critters is generally illegal but Bear Spray which has the same active ingredient (at least mine does) is permitted as pest control.  Some lazy googling suggests that it gets a little murky as to how the law is enforced.

My recommendation is if you plan on doing any hiking while you drive up the Alcan and before you hit Alaska, wait until you cross the border into Canada and in country.  This helps to reduce the chances of getting sent to secondary at the border and makes life a lot easier for all involved to ensure a (hopefully) painless crossing.

Do your own due diligence and all that but in the Banff area, I routinely see bear spray for sale at Canadian Tire.

[Dena Kelley]

Noise, yes. Bear spray- yes. You can buy it here, at any sporting goods store, Wal-Mart, Fred Meyer. I don’t think you can take it through Canada…at least, I know the last time I went through Canada and they found out I was from Alaska I got the third degree about any type of weapon and bear spray was on the list. We Alaskans apparently have a rep.

Make noise, as David said. Talk, sing, call out “Hey bear!”, bang on something, wear bear bells, etc. Be especially careful – and noisy- in heavy brush and near running water (because running water can mask noise quite well).

I didn’t get the impression you planned on carrying a firearm but my opinion is different than David’s on firearms. I carry bear spray as my primary defense, with a gun as secondary. IMO, bear spray is great if the bear is downwind, and if you’re not in your tent. Not so great if you’re in your tent or if you’re the one downwind. Guns also make a nice big bang, and I think there’s a reason why people in Canada use bear bangers. Just my opinion. You’ll probably run into other people who are packing, it’s pretty common up here.

Electric bear fence are used by hunters up here. Not typically by backpackers, but I suspect that’s more to do with weight than anything else. I think they are probably fairly effective.

I suggest you eat well away from where you camp. Not just in terms of meters, but rather miles. Stopping an hour before you plan to camp to make and eat your dinner keeps the smells away from your camp. Barring that, eat and store your food well away from your camp. A couple years back I was camping with a couple other ladies above treeline in the mountains, well away from any salmon streams. It felt pretty safe- never saw any bears, or bear scat, it wasn’t berry season yet. We cooked and ate about 50 yards from the tents, and stored our bear cans well away. While I was eating, a tiny piece of food fell off my spoon and onto the ground. I didn’t think much of it. The next morning I walked back over to where I had eaten the night before- only to find a HUGE hole had been dug. We never saw or heard a thing over night, but clearly a bear had come into camp and had found where I’d dropped that food and had been hoping for more.

[David Thomas]

I concur with Dena about electric fences: While effective, I wouldn’t / haven’t used one for backpacking in interior or south-central Alaska.  If I was traveling along the Arctic Ocean coastline with a chance of encountering polar bears, maybe.  And, of course, hunters have a big pile of meat to protect and many, many trips to get it out if it’s a moose.  And they are prepared to haul a lot of weight be it on four-wheelers or horses, often.  I’ve seen electric fences used in fixed camps for black bears in CCC camps in the California Sierra and for grizzlies at Brooks Camp in Katmai NP.

I also agree about cooking/eating NOT where you sleep.  Make a dinner stop a few miles before stopping for the night.  A 200-meter triangle between cooking, sleeping and storing food is sometimes recommended, but a few miles is even better.  I’d skip bacon and sausage and other very odorous foods.  The two times I’ve been in a group that lost food to bears (before I got aggressive about chasing off black bears), each time it was the pack with the salami in it.  I’d also avoid established campsites for sleeping in (I don’t mean government-built, but informal campsites clearly used over the years).  I’d cook there – they’re always already loaded with food smells, including incompletely burned food waste – but then move on a few miles before camping for the night.

[Michelle B]

Dena and David,

Thanks for the great bear advice.  Good point about the established camps.

I have always carried a gun hiking but never anything big enough to slow down a bear. I would like to carry in Alaska but don’t know how to get through Canada with it.

I guess I need to address this to Dena since she is the pistol packer.  What caliber do you recommend and do you have any advice on transporting it?

Thanks,

Michelle

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