Apex jacket

[Joost D]

Made a apex 2oz jacket. The shell is 10d taffeta.

I drafted the pattern mostly myself and a bit of help from a friend who’s a pro. Very handy friends like that ;)

It can turn inside it’d own pocket and has cyberian cord locks on the hood and hem.

Weight 265gr

[Ken Larson]

Very Nice and I hope it preforms to your anticipated uses!!

[Joost D]

There are some things I would change a next time. A bit longer so it covers more and the seam at the sleeves aren’t what I expected to be. I put elastic in it but next time I will move the seam inwards and put fold over elastic in the seam. This is what my down jacket has and is much more comfy.

But it was lot of fun!

Comy to around 0 degrees Celsius with just a base layer. Perfect!

[Michael B]

I would love to hear your operations orders – I’ve thought about making one, but am hesitant to start into clothing :-)

[Joost D]

Well firstly I never sewed clothing before so I started with a fleece vest.

I looked for a pattern that looked as much as this one as possible and ended up using

https://wardrobebyme.com/collections/mens-pdf-sewing-patterns/products/fleece-jacket-sewing-pattern

A friend edited to use no stretch fabric.

When you have you’re pattern complete

1 I’ve made the inner shell first. So I had a complete jacket in red (but without zipper and such) so I could test the fit.

2 stitch all apex parts to the outer shell pattern pieces.

3 sew all shell pieces together.

4 sandwich the “jackets” rights facing with the inner on the outside.

5 create a sandwich to create the zipper and draft stopper. From bottom to top : outer – zipper with teeth down facing away from the seam – draft stopper – inner.

6 sew everything together and flip it. Leave a small gap on the inner. Under the arm on the hem and sew that by hand. There are lots of yt videos on how to do so.

And that’s about it. To make the sewing easier on such thin fabric u used water soluble tape to tape it together and sewed over the tape. Made a perfect stitch and doesn’t shift on you. Then a hand wash and it gone. Just a tip.

 

Hope this helps?

[Shmedlap]

Top work. Is your use referred to as active?

“Comfy to around 0 degrees Celsius with just a base layer.”

[Jerry Adams]

9.5 ounces, nice.  That’ll be really warm for not that much weight.

Nice job.

My biggest problem is sewing sleeves to main body.  I put the unevenness at the armpit where I don’t see it.  Is there some trick?

[Joost D]

Yes I’m going to use this when backpacking and for general hiking. I wanted something warmer then fleece. And bonus I can use it too boost my apex quilt.

 

@jerry this jacket has 1 piece Raglan sleeves. I find them easier and as a bonus there’s no seam in top of the shoulder where a backpack can rub it and damage it.

How I do this is pin at 2 places opposite each other (alliging nodges) . And then pin it towards each other. That way you can distribute the fabric evenly. If I start pinning on 1 point I have “spare” fabric when I’m done. I don’t have that problem with the above method.

[Jerry Adams]

interesting, I’ll have to try that

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