Adapters for cheap N-butane fuel for canister stoves

[Bob Moulder]

Now that warmer weather is here it is often possible in many places to operate canister stoves on straight N-butane fuel, which of course does not contain the propane and isobutane that are the main components of most commercial canister fuels from Primus, Snow Peak, MSR, etc. As long as the ambient temperatures remain above about 50°F, canister stoves will work fine with N-butane only, so the much cheaper N-butane fuels designed for table-top burners will work fine.

The trick is getting the N-butane into a regular canister, or, alternatively, using N-butane straight from its original can.

Now available thru Amazon are a couple of adapters that make possible both of these options.

The first one is an adapter that accommodates the use of an N-butane can with a remote canister stove. For obvious reasons (the height!) it is not practical for topper types of stoves.

The next one is an adapter which, when combined with the one above, will permit N-butane fuel to be transferred from the N-butane container into a standard 110g or 230g canister.

 

The beauty of these adapters is that they allow the use of much cheaper N-butane canisters that typically cost about $1.50 for a 227g can. Probably not a big deal for the solo hiker using maybe 10-15g of fuel per day, but for groups of 3-4 or more on a longer trip in warmer weather this could make sense.

The N-butane canisters are commonly found at restaurant supply stores and very frequently at Asian markets (especially Korean) because the table-top burners are very popular for cooking beef for bulgogi, kalbi, etc.

[Brad Clarke]

I bought the second one through eBay about a year ago.

It’s a very well constructed device.

[Jim C]

Very nice! I had no idea something like your second link exists. Aside from using n-butane, you can use that gadget alone to top off a canister. Finally something to do with all those partially used canisters. You could probably also save some money buying the bigger 440g containers and using them to refill 110g or 220g canisters, if you’re going below 50°F.

I learned from the Amazon reviews, and this post from Hikin’ Jim, that to facilitate the transfer of fuel from one canister to the other, by cooling the receiving canister (to lower its pressure) and warming the giving canister (to raise its pressure). This makes sense, since gas will flow from high pressure to low.

Going back to using butane: if you have a stove with a pre-heat loop (like a Kovea Spider), what’s the lowest temperature you could use pure butane?

[Roger Caffin]

if you have a stove with a pre-heat loop (like a Kovea Spider), what’s the lowest temperature you could use pure butane?

That is a bit tricky.

IF the canister is at ambient, then it will die regardless at 0.5 C, because the n-butane will stop boiling off gas at that temperature. And the canister will continue to get colder if you start just above 0.5 C.

On the other hand, if you sit the canister in some water – even if the water is at +5 C, then the stove will run. The water at +5 C is hotter than the boiling point of the n-butane and will supply heat to the canister.

Of course, as soon as you warm up some water, the smart thing to do is to put a couple of spoonfuls of the warm water ito the bowl the canister is sitting. That will help it along.

IF you have kept the canister warm – under your quilt overnight for instance, then you have a running start. A bit of radiant heating (A LITTLE bit!) will help things along.

Complex…

Cheers

 

[Rick M]

Don’t these table top cans have a some internal straw-like tube that requires them to be used horizontally, certainly not inverted?

[Bob Moulder]

Rick, yes there is a pick-up tube inside those cans, with the pick-up point being located on the side of the can (inside, of course!) that is adjacent to the cut-out in the flange coupler.

In the photo above showing inverted operation, obviously the stand (which I couldn’t locate) tilts the can over a bit to take this into account.

There is a bit of an art to transferring every last molecule (well, almost) of fuel from one container to another. Cooling the recipient can and/or warming the donor can (warm water or a hair dryer) are key. Also a good scale accurate to about 1g is a must in order to know how much fuel has been transferred, thereby preventing overfilling.

[Rick M]

Yes, Ive been using this refill adapter kit for the last 3yrs I think.  I set the canister on a refreezable gel pack I have for my cooler boxes to facilitate the transfer. Been a little nervous using the Coleman 70/30 iso/propane mix sold here in London. But Amazon UK sells it so cheap in 500cc canisters (£4) I had to give it a go. No mishaps yet, knock on wood!

 

[Bob Moulder]

I set the canister on a refreezable gel pack I have for my cooler boxes to facilitate the transfer.

That’s a good idea!

[Jerry Adams]

That’s pretty nice.  The second one “G-works Gas Saver R1 Cartridge Exchanger Anodize Duralumin” let’s you transfer from one canister to another.  $26.30.

Then you could always take just the amount of butane you needed.  No need to take extra fuel when all you have is a full canister.

I saw another adaptor for $30 that let’s you use a standard propane canister with a Lindal valve.  That would be another cold weather solution – works much below zero.  Canisters are kind of heavy though.  Good if you were in your car or something.

[Jim C]

Rick, check the link to Hikin’ Jim’s blog on my first comment; he discusses the “straw” there, as well as several other helpful hints…and a few very subtle warnings. :)

[Bob Moulder]

Naturally, the usual dire warnings and caveats apply when dealing with all things related to stoves and fuel. Things that seem bloody obvious to us are apparently missed by others. Lawyers love those people.

Also applies to McDonald’s coffee: “DON’T POUR SCALDING HOT COFFEE ON THE FAMILY JEWELS!”

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