Where to learn self-arrest

[David Thomas]

>"When arresting, to quote " "Never give in, never give in, never, never, never, never""

+1

The first time I planted my axe in an RMI class, I wasn't prepared for the sudden force and it popped out of my grip (never happened again), I keep scrambling, clawing at the snow with my hands as the instructor was shouting "Keep trying! Keep trying! Keep trying!" and praised me afterwards for immediately switching to some manner of self-arrest attempts after losing my ax.

A few years, way too high on Spring snow climb of Pyramid Peak, I slipped off the slope wearing X-C skis and only having Nordic poles in my hands. I put all my weight on the pole tip getting little purchase on the icy slope. I pulled with my other hand (still in the pole strap) as hard as I could while hearing "Keep trying! Keep trying! Keep trying!" in my head as I slowed a bit, hit a bump, popped out, sped up, and again heard "Keep trying! Keep trying! Keep trying!" as, again, I slowed my descent until I stopped. I let my snow pants freeze to the snow a bit, wiggled the tip in more, than gently kicked a step and less gently kicked another step while waiting for my companions to get to me.

[David Gardner]

I swear by Alpine Skills International: http://alpineskills.com/

I learned the full range of summer and winter alpine skills from them, including several self-arrest techniques with ice axe, ski grips and ski poles. The instructors are absolutely top notch, and guided my tour of the Winter Sierra High Route. They can take you at any present level of skill and quickly teach you rock-solid competence in any conditions.

I have no relationship with them, other than appreciation and gratitude from taking their courses and tours over the past 30 years. I have put my life in their hands more than once, and would not hesitate to do so again. For certain, the skills they taught me saved my life when I took a 500 foot tumble while skiing down the Dana Couloir in 1993.

Best money I ever spent.

[Dave @ Oware]

When practicing, I like to keep a cover or some duct tape on the adz and spike. It cuts down on the chance of (fashionable in some circles) ice climbers scars on the chin and forehead.

When traveling, rather than a wrist loop, I prefer a leash attached to a single runner over my shoulder. Easier to change hands when traversing back and forth without being unattached to the axe. Similar to how one attaches a rock hammer. Then when you want to quickly stow the axe between shoulders and pack or back of the sweater for traveling on level terrain or for a quick rock move, the axe is still attached.

[d k]

+1 on Alpine Skills International – I took a two day Shasta trip with them years ago where they taught basic mountaineering skills along the way, including self-arrest. If you don't get into the free classes that person is giving, you might consider ASI if it's at all possible financially.

[Dave @ Oware]

"Crampons, knots, and a harness have very little to do with self-arrest technique. Maybe they are all covered in the same training class."

But they are common things in situations when you may need to self arrest and require some extra thought. Self arrest with crampons is done differently. Self arresting in a rope team on a steep slope takes extra methods and practice. Self arresting on a rope team in crevasses take some forethought and additional skills as well.

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