Mt Whitney from the West

[Scott Smith]

A few years ago, someone mentioned a trip that crested over Whitney . starting from the West .

Anyone familar with that route ?

Thanks

[Paul Wagner]

My guess is that they were referring to the John Muir Trail. It leads down from Yosemite all the way to Whitney Portal…and the last twenty miles takes you up to the top of Whitney and then down the trail that most people dayhike to climb Whitney

[Brendan Yeager]

They could also have been referring to the High Sierra Trail, which starts on the western slope of the Sierra in Sequoia National Park. It merges with the John Muir Trail just below Whitney. The HST is a West – East Route whereas the JMT is primarily North – South. At 72 miles it is about 1/3 the length of the JMT (it also has about 1/3 the elevation gain).

I put together a video from my recent HST trip if you are considering it – ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOidp9S9040

[Roleigh Martin]

The JMT and HST as the others have stated are two trails from the west, but more popular than those are those who hike up the PCT from Horseshoe Meadows to do Whitney from the West that way. Second to that are those who hike in from Onionvalley Trailhead over Kearsarge, then Forester, then onto Whitney from the West. Both of these shorter trails require one to acclimate fast (Kearsarge faster, due to Forester). Those who take long to acclimate (such as me) prefer more days out there at lower altitudes before doing Whitney. I was unable to do Whitney when I did the HST (as were the others in our group) — we were too dizzy when we got to Whitney Summit Junction (2 miles short), so we just continued on to Trailcrest Pass and on down to Whitney Portal. I've done Whitney via the JMT now 6 times (one of my 7 JMTS shorted at Bishop Pass). Never have an acclimation problem doing the JMT before doing Whitney. I'm amazed at those who can do Whitney as a day hike.

[Bob Gross]

"I'm amazed at those who can do Whitney as a day hike.

I found that I could never go up the Whitney Trail faster than 4 hours 15 minutes. Year 2014 was Year 39 for me, so I am trying to figure out what to do for Year 40.

–B.G.–

[John Rowan]

I did the JMT this July, and I have to say that, from the looks on the faces of the dayhikers I saw, I'd rather do the 211 miles in from the other side than the 11 mile dayhike from the portal.

I don't know why, but I had less fun going down those last 11 miles than I did on any of my 20-mile days.

[Bob Gross]

"I don't know why, but I had less fun going down those last 11 miles than I did on any of my 20-mile days."

The top of the 10.7-mile descent is rocky. Then the middle of it is rocky and bad. Only when you get to the bottom third of the trail does it get easier. Still, there are a few bad stretches.

You should have seen it a few years ago when the big flood hit it. Many tons of sand got swept downhill. The trail was dissected badly in several places. Hikers had to be helicoptered off the mountain.

–B.G.–

[Frank T]

About 8 years ago I did Whitney from Horseshoe Meadow. Our trip to the peak was an 18-mile hike on our "layover day." The extra couple of days to acclimatize was helpful. Honestly, the most painful part of that trip was getting sand-blasted on the way back going over New Army Pass.

[Bob Gross]

You don't have to worry about New Army Pass anymore. There is a big bull marmot that sits up there to monitor your progress in the wind.

Another way to get to Whitney is via the Miter Basin and Sky Blue Lake.

–B.G.–

[Space Q. Monkey]

Amen. The way down from Whitney to the Portal sucks. After being up in the beautiful high country, slogging down talus and scree switch backs past a stream of unhappy day hikers and crowded camping areas is a big let down. I can't imagine what anyone gets out of just speeding up whitney and back down like that in a day. Aside from the obvious, "I climbed the highest mountain in the lower 48"

[Diane “Piper” Soini]

If you start your Whitney trek from the Trail Pass trail, it'll take a little longer than the standard hike so you might need an extra day or two for your trip, but Trail Pass is a non-quota trail so you don't have to be part of the lottery for the Whitney Portal trail. You still need a wilderness permit. The trailhead is at the same place as Cottonwood Pass, it's still on the eastern Sierra, but you'll approach Whitney from the west.

[Elizabeth Tracy]

Lots of great routes from the west, identified by others here. They are all good. Each has pluses and minuses.

JMT is the one to do if you have the time for a 200-mile trip. Logistically it is like other thru-hikes and requires quite a bit of planning, but there are lots of others in your shoes and it's relatively easy to hitchhike or find rides with hikers along the eastside Sierra from trail exit to trail exit. Downside, it is the most crowded.

HST is the one I'm inclined to recommend, though I am having trouble articulating why exactly I might like it over the others. Lots of variety in the Sierra scenery over the 70 miles, because it starts from the west, so you get to see the giant Sequoias. Hordes of people at the start and the finish, but with the exception of the off-trail Miter Basin approach, this route to Whitney may be the least crowded. The biggest mistake is to RUSH the HST, thus missing some astounding side-trips (Nine Lakes Basin, Wallace/Wales Lake, etc.) that are otherwise very hard to reach. So if you have only 5-6 days, do one of the shorter loops in from the eastside (below), not this one. If you have at least 7 days for the HST you won't have a problem getting to 14.5k acclimitized. Downside: The HST is by far the hardest to set up tranportation-wise, because it takes more than a half-day to drive all the way around the Sierra from trailhead to trailhead, and there is no easy public transit. Most people have to arrange a drop-off. You might spend a whole extra day of your vacation time just navigating to your hike start.

Loops that start from the eastside but approach Whitney from the west:

Kearsarge to Whitney: Kearsarge is a really beautiful pass. Take at least 5 days and have time for sidetrips. Downsides: Crowded (you're on the JMT almost the whole way), and you'll need a car shuttle. If you are rushing and/or not acclimitized from prior Sierra trips to high altitude, Forester Pass at 13.3k feet is a nasty jolt so early in the trip (Day 2 or 3).

Horseshoe Meadows, over either New Army or Cottonwood Pass, to Whitney: Easy eastside start, not much climbing to Day 1 pass, gorgeous and unique foxtail pine forests. Similar in distance to the Kearsarge start. This one has fewer crowds than either the JMT or the Kearsarge approach, and the car shuttle is by far the shortest/easiest. Downside: Most people characterize the section from Soldier Lakes to Crabtree Meadow as a little boring or unspectacular by High Sierra standards. Doesn't mean it's ugly; all here is beautiful. It just might be a 7/10 instead of 10/10.

Miter Basin: Is a cross-country variation of the Horseshoe Meadows approach. Start at Horseshoe trailhead. Once over either Cottonwood or New Army Pass, trek x-country into Miter Basin (easy-ish), over Crabtree Pass (requires true x-country navigation skills and comfort over Class 2 passes with full pack), and then to Whitney either:(a) over Discovery Pinnacle; or (b) down the chain of Crabtree Lakes (recommended!) and then around the corner to Timberline Lake/JMT. You get the 10/10 scenery (avoiding the 7/10 trail section), and this route will have the most solitude, till you reach the JMT some days into your trip.

There are some other variations, of course – Whitney Mountaineering Route; Trail Pass that Piper mentions (I'm not familiar with that one); Shepherd Pass start; Mineral King (alternate westside) start. But the above are the most common approaches.

– Elizabeth

[Steve B]

Solution to the HST transportation issue; do it as an out and back. Did that in 9 days back in 2003, very nice. Hamilton Lakes was amazing.

Steve

[Thomas Sabido]

Which route did you choose? Do you have waypoints for the route you took? I’m looking at the Horseshoe Meadows – Cottonwood Lakes, Old Army Pass – Soldier Lake – Miter Basin – Whitney route.

[Scott Bentz]

I think the HST is a great trip. Easy to do in 4 days but if you have a bit more time you can really enjoy the side lakes or take a nice hot tub down in the Kern as others have suggested. I think heading up to the Kahweah Gap passing Hamilton Lake and Precipice Lake is one of the prettiest hikes in the Sierra.

The hike from Horseshoe Meadows to Cottonwood Pass down to Rock Creek and then up to Crabtree Meadows is an easy hike. If you can, head out the same way to miss heading out the Portal. It’s always a downer to me to have to head out that way.

We hiked last year from Blue Sky Basin over Crabtree Pass and then up the “sandhill” to Discovery Pinnacle. That climb up the sandhill is doable but tough. I took a group up there last year and it beat us up pretty good.

Let us know what you are planning.

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