UL Gear List observations and conclusions after three years of JMT experience

[Cameron M]

This is a list of gear refined after three years of UL backpacking along the JMT in September / early October:

BACKPACK-
Z-Packs 60 Liters Arc Blast, with optional load lifters and extra lumber pad, 18 oz, $289
Love this pack. I started this year’s hike with 10 days of food and 2 lbs of water for a total 31 lbs. In a pinch I think it could go to 35 lbs, and below 28 lbs I was very happy with a very even distribution of shoulders and hips. I like the bottom side pockets for reachable water bottles, and the mesh on the back served well for quick visible access and storage for day food and trail clothes. Certainly the carbon frame worked well to keep the loads more even than with other similar but frameless packs I have used. Recommended!

http://www.zpacks.com

SHELTER
For two years I have used the Mountain Hardwear SuperMegaUL 2, and I like it a lot. it is around 2 lb 4 oz as the full tent, or you can shave off 10 oz in the fast-fly configuration. $300. It appears to not have been designed for fast-fly, as the outer fly does not attach across the bow of the poles, but you can make it work. It is clearly a copy of the well used Big Agnes Fly Creek UL, but with a huge difference; the front door leans out / away from the inside, while the Big Agnes leans inwards. At 6’-1”, I find that the leaning out aspect makes all the difference for comfort. Sitting up and shoulder width is good enough for my long torso. The front vestibule can hold two packs.

http://www.mountainhardwear.com/outdoor-camping-equipment-expedition/

This year I tried a tarp and I liked it a lot: the Six Moons Deschutes. 13 oz, $165. It erects fast, and you can raise it enough to just fit two people if necessary. Hunkered down to the ground, I think it could hold up to a good wind, and it took a couple inches of snow no problem. I wish they would make it 3” longer, and / or cut it so I could guy out the area over my head a few more inches. It feels spacious inside and for sitting up. The two vestibule flaps allow for pleasant views out. No way would the similar but smaller Six Moons Wild Oasis fit my 6’-1 body. On the nights when we wanted to be under the stars but were unsure of the weather, we staked out the tarp and erected it, then collapsed it by pulling out the pole and slept on top of it, with it ready to be erected in seconds. I really liked how fast I could erect it and take it down. You have to seam-seal it. I used automotive windshield silicone; it has a pointy dispenser and is fluid enough to do a real clean job.

http://www.sixmoondesigns.com/tarps.html

I tried polycro (window film plastic) for the groundsheet this year. I don’t like the way it tears at the edges, and it can be a bit noisy in cold and windy nights, but on balance I will go with it again, as it is so light at 2.2 oz and can roll up to almost nothing. I also carried a piece of Tyvek 3.6 oz just large enough to fit under my Thermarest Long NeoAir pad, 16 oz, $140. I love the pad, have always been warm and comfortable with it, but I am paranoid about holes, hence the Tyvek. I used the Tyvek every day for sitting, sunbathing, etc., so I will l probably take it next time, despite the *horrible* weight penalty. For tent stakes, a new discovery! Sorex 9” carbon fiber stakes from Ruta Locura, with metal tips and heads, .264 oz each, $3. Love them, so light, and you can drive ’em deep.

http://www.cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest/mattresses/fast-and-light/neoair-xlite/product
http://www.rutalocura.com/Tent_Stakes.html

SLEEP
I have used a Western Mountaineering Long Versalite for three years, overfilled for a 5 degree rating, 2 lb 5 oz, $500. I agree with Tom who estimates a warmth differential of 20 degrees, which is to say that at 25 degrees I need to wear most of my clothes to stay warm, I can tolerate 20 degrees, and at 15 degrees I would be unhappy. Everyone is different, but for those reading this who are trying to shave ounces, I strongly urge you to either pre-test a bag, or be very conservative. This is a stupid area to be ounce foolish. Eat two less power bars for the weight savings and stay warm for god’s sake. The WM bags also mate nicely, so my friend with the 20 degree WM Alpinlite was WAY happier when we slept with the bags joined. For a pillow I just stuff the very few extra clothes I have into a stuff sack, and supplement that with a piece of 2 oz 6’ x 8’ egg crate foam.

I am very interested in some new approaches like using a quilt-like bag that quits at the neck, and wearing a down hoodie. It does seem idiotic to sleep on compressed down, and it is difficult to constantly keep the air hole in the right spot when I turn to side-sleep on both sides all night. Zpacks has one version, although I am suspicious of their temperature ratings.

http://www.westernmountaineering.com

CLOTHES
I carry the standard stuff: One pair of Arcteryx pants with two regular pockets and two zippered pockets (important for not losing all the small stuff like knives, lighters, etc). I love these pants- rugged, good in hot and cold, and yes, stylish; two Icebreaker briefs (they dry instantly, hold their shape); one pair Icebreaker 150 top and bottom base layers (I may move up to 200 or 260 weight if I do more October travel or expect night temps to go below 20 degrees); an long acrylic beanie that is large enough to cover the ears while rolled back to double thickness; a Marmot Super Mica jacket (small and light, pit-zips for air circulation); one REI polyester collarless shirt (gets dirty easily, hard to clean, gets stinky, I am going to throw it away); one Patagonia Caprilene 2 collared and neck zipper shirt (way easier to clean, dries fast, not so stinky, zip neck really helps regulate temps, I will buy another to replace the REI, and perhaps get a heavier weight); a new pair of Mountain Hardwear Butter Gloves (lightweight liners that are just warm enough, I like them); 2-3 pair of Smartwool PHD socks (comfortable, don’t stink so much, but achilles area between double-thickness heel and upper ankle area tears pretty quickly, I have to replace them every year); Giro bike gloves for trek-pole use; Brooks Cascadia 7 trail runners (super comfortable, never hot nor sweaty feet, still good after 400 miles, lightweight. However in some cases the rocky trails are too pointy, so I inserted 3/32” of cardboard to stiffen the sole a bit, and I also use IsoArch insole supports); one cotton bandanna for general head and neck use; an Outdoor Research Sombriolet sun hat (It works! The first sun hat I have ever owned that wicks air, does not feel like a sweat hat. It keeps its shape. Really really good); a simple mosquito head net large enough to be worn over the sun hat; Suncloud Excursion rimless glasses (cheap, durable, light, they rock).

COOKING and HYDRATION
I use a .5 ounce Vargo Esbit tablet holder, with a DYI windscreen. The windscreen is packed / wrapped around a 700 ml Snow Peak pot, with a nested Snow Peak cup inside. I DYI reflective insulated wrappers for the cup and pot by cutting up a cheap car insulated foam reflective window shade. They keep the water warmer for longer, and save the weight of a double wall cup. I can fit the stove inside the cup along with around 7 Esbit tablets, making a very nice compact cookit. I don’t think the air holes that Howard has in his DYI design are necessary, and as I use the Vargo Esbit holder, I don’t need his innovation of the wire to hold the pot. I think that if you only need hot-enough water and have patience, you can’t beat Esbit for weight and bulk, at any length of travel. I am still not convinced by the math some are putting out about the Snow Peak LiteMax stove exceeding the Esbits for efficiency at certain distances, but the numbers are so close that I might try it. They say that the small canister gets 10 x 700 ml boils and the large canister gets 20 x 700 ml boils. I get one 700 ml boil per Esbit. I use one Esbit for morning, one for night, and one for tea and personal wash-up water, which is to say I use three a day. I should note however that while I can get a light boil, the tablet heat source is too small for the large pot of water and so the water will never get quite as hot as with a stove.

I use one large and one medium reused Mountain House reflective foil food packages to “cook” my dried foods. I need a new lightweight solution like a closable bottle of some sort so I can hydrate the food with cold water while walking an hour away from camp. A lot of food does not need warm water to be re-hydrated, and I could save fuel this way. I use a long REI plastic spoon to reach into the packets; I had the Vargo Titanium spoon but don’t like its shape nor the feel of the metal in my mouth.

For water, I carry one 1-liter Platy, one 2-liter Platy, one one-liter light store-water bottle for a pack side-pocket, and one larger mouth Gatorade-type bottle for the other side. The larger mouth is easier to stuff in snow for “yellow snow” Tang icee’s. I have been using AquaMira tablets for years, but I am now convinced by the argument that a Steripen is weight-effective because you don’t carry so much heavy water when you can Steripen and drink water instantly all along the trail.

The Packitgourmet food is so much better than anything out there. Everyone on the trail flipped when I let them taste what I was eating, particularly the beans and vegetables. Whole milk and some other things can be gotten from Barry Farms.

http://www.howardjohnson.name/Backpacking/Stove/Howards_Esbit_Stove_3.0.html
http://snowpeak.com/collections/stoves
http://www.packitgourmet.com
http://www.barryfarm.com

OTHER NOTABLE EQUIPMENT
The REI carbon fiber poles work well.
The Black Diamond carbon fiber sectioned but non-adjustable poles are lighter. There are some one-piece carbon fiber poles out there that are probably even better, if you don’t need sections or adjustability.
Bearikade carbon fiber canisters are the lightest. At 1.25 lbs of food a day, if I crush the dried stuff I can fit 12 days into one Bearikade Expedition. However I am now going to try 1.5 lbs or even 1.75 lbs a day. I lost too much weight on the last trip.
The Petzl 1 oz e+lite headlamps are great. If you like spending hours every day hiking in the dark you might want something more strong, but otherwise it is a great light. I will consider carrying two next time, instead of just an extra set of batteries. Life sucks when you lose your small headlamp.
I like the .6 oz Gerber UL knife.
I use an iPhone, and made my own powerful USB solar cell charger, for one third the cost and 1/2 half the weight of most commercial cells. You can too, going to Browndoggadgets.com. I use the 6V 830 mA cell. However his complete kits have gotten so good and lightweight, you might just want to buy one and not do DYI. Also, ruggedness counts for something in the woods. I like carrying a small battery, so that both the iPhone battery and supplemental battery have charges. My iPhone does not work well in cold weather with a low charge.

http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/CLASSIC-headlamps/ePLUSLITE?l=US#.VDsO6l6OXA0
http://www.wild-ideas.net/the-expedition/
http://www.browndoggadgets.com

FINAL LIST OF STUFF
One small bag of bandages, medicine, razor, toothbrush, sunscreen, chapstick, lotion, Bronner’s liquid soap; small rolls of medical, gaffer and tenacious tapes; whistle; plastic mirror; small bic lighter and emergency matches; pen and paper; earbuds; two pairs of cheap and small unbreakable plastic reading glasses; 50 ft cord; sewing kit; one REI snow tent stake for catholes and poking fires; 5 binder clips for laundry and hanging clothes off the pack while hiking; safety pins; extra trek pole tip; rubber bands; one wrapped razor blade for sharp cuts and surgery; one small tweezer; a few waterproof silnylon bags to internally organize and waterproof articles; reflective foil emergency blanket; maps and compass.

OTHER SITES I LIKE
http://www.hikelight.com/index.html
http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com
http://www.adventurealan.com
http://www.backpackinglight.com
http://gossamergear.com
http://www.tarptent.com

FINAL WORD
In most cases, you can go ultralight for 50% of the cost if you don’t demand to squeeze that last ounce. For instance, my 5.6 oz $199. Montbell down jacket is almost the same as the Uniglo 8 oz $85 down jacket. A Marmot sleeping bag can weigh 6 ounces more than a Western Mountaineering bag but cost $250 rather than $500. Everyone can afford a simple $85 silnylon tarp. You can buy used equipment, make your own, and often find online deals. It is all about incrementalism and there are no right answers. I appreciate the information I have gotten online from others to help make my choices and hope that my effort here may help others. Namaste.

[Andy F]

Interesting thoughts. I agree with the approach of not spending large amounts of money to save small amounts of weight. Go light enough, but no lighter.

I do like to use a 5.5 oz silnylon groundsheet under a tarp rather than polycro. I've coated the entire ground side with silicone, so it's very durable and waterproof and less slippery. My polycro gorundsheet is only 3 oz lighter, and the weight savings isn't worth it for me.

[jimmy b]

Cameron I was surprised to see that the versalight is not keeping you warmer. I have the same bag except reg size with no overfill and with a mid weight base layer for sleeping clothes and fleece hat I'm easily comfortable @ 20F. That's on a neoair xlite. I think I could easily make it to its rating with another appropriate top layer and I am a cold sleeper. I do shake as much down to the top side of the bag as I can, like you say not doing any good on the bottom. Would be curious if you are on frozen ground. Maybe loosing heat to the ground?

jimmyb

[Cameron M]

I have been surprised too! I am perfectly warm on the ground, and I also shake the down to the top. I am thin, and I do now feel like the bag is a bit too spacious, and that I am losing some heat into some empty space. I could also be off by a few degrees; I am least likely to check the thermometer when it is coldest at 4 am. I think the important point for readers considering bag temperatures and the great temptation to save ounces by getting lighter bags is that warmth thresholds are personal. Borrowing a bag before purchasing something expensive like a WM is helpful.

[Steve Meier]

Cameron, thanks for the write up. One of the reasons I am a member here (other than scoring deals on gear) is to learn more. I don't get out as much as I would like and therefore don't have as much experience with my gear. Hearing how others are getting along with theirs is very helpful. Much appreciated!

[Peter Lester]

Cameron,

Did you need all of the room in your 60 Liters Arc Blast or would a 52 Liter have been big enough for a JMT hike?

[M B]

Did not read all of the OP, quite long.

My 52L arc was fine for me on my JMT.

Would depend on ones gear and bear can.

The bear can did do some damage to the arc, but it was anticipated

[Cameron M]

Informed by past varied experiences I ordered the largest pack size *just in case*, but in fact even with the Expedition-sized Bearikade filled with food, carrying a tent rather than a tarp, and going solo so not sharing any equipment, I could easily manage with a 52L, and the 60L is probably a waste. I see a lot of people hanging their bulky foam pads underneath, where there are some attached cords for that purpose. If you need more space, you should probably consider revising your equipment list IMHO. During the normal late June to early October season, the JMT is not very demanding, equipment-wise.

[Valerie E]

I love, love, love my 5'6" overstuffed Versalite — BUT — I'm a very cold sleeper, and at 30F I will be cold if I don't use my down jacket as an improptu "draft collar". The bag's roomy dimensions are great for us restless sleepers, but it makes for some chilliness if you don't air-proof the bag around your neck. Since I carry a down jacket anyway, this simple solution works really well for me.

Edited to add: Good stuff — very sensible advice and down-to-earth viewpoint!

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