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Zipper alternative


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  • #1306578
    Colin Krusor
    BPL Member

    @ckrusor

    Locale: Northwest US

    I'm working on an MYOG packraft, and I need some kind of strong fastener to hold two long edges of fabric together. Coil zippers, snaps, and hook and loop are not strong enough. So I purchased some molded tooth (delrin) zippers and, when they arrived, I weighed them. Seven ounces in zippers alone. So, I need an alternative.

    I have some tiny (bracelet-sized) 3/8" side release buckles. I'm considering using these, with grosgrain, at 6" intervals to bear the load, with a strip of 1/2" wide hook and loop to keep any gaps closed. I would guess that a series of hefty buttons would be heavier due to the necessary reinforcement.

    Are there any other kinds of fairly strong, lightweight clasps that I could consider?

    #2015616
    Colin Krusor
    BPL Member

    @ckrusor

    Locale: Northwest US

    It also occurred to me that I could use a series of Mandarin-style "frog buttons", where each one is essentially a nacrabiner/soft shackle, like this:

    frog buttons

    Has anyone attempted to use unusual kinds of fasteners as an alternative to zippers, snaps, or hook and loop?

    #2015621
    Troy Ammons
    BPL Member

    @tammons

    How about nacro biners

    #2015623
    Bradley Attaway
    Member

    @attaboybrad

    Locale: San Francisco Bay Area

    I anticipate using small rare earth magnets to attach my underquilt to the hammock I'm making. Seemed to work well in my backyard.

    Each magnet pair requires about 3kgs to separate, more than enough to hold. The 8 magnets, in total, weigh approximately 24g. Cost for 10 round magnets was roughly $8 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KV38ES/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Just gotta be careful to keep them away from my phone when I'm on the trail ;-)

    #2015627
    Colin Krusor
    BPL Member

    @ckrusor

    Locale: Northwest US

    Bradley, I thought of magnets, too. I like the idea for the sleek simplicity of the design, but for a structural fastener on a boat, I think I would need magnets about ten times stronger than yours, and I would need a lot of them. Even with grade N52 rare earth magnets, I think it would be quite heavy. I haven't done the calculations, but I think small side-release buckles would probably be much stronger per unit weight.

    I have always liked magnetic closures, though. They are the most durable, the least fiddly, and the most cosmetically tidy of all fasteners.

    #2015630
    David Scheidt
    Member

    @dscheidt

    Stitching.

    What's the actual application and what are the expected forces?

    #2015636
    Colin Krusor
    BPL Member

    @ckrusor

    Locale: Northwest US

    David, I'm happy to attempt to explain my somewhat half-baked idea for this packraft project, but I don't understand how stitching is an alternative to a zipper, in any application.

    Maybe one of us has a basic misunderstanding of what zippers and stitching do.

    #2015653
    Ryan Smith
    BPL Member

    @violentgreen

    Locale: East TN

    Have you tried any of the various high strength hook & loop? I used some 1"x2" pieces to mount a nitrous controller on my T/A that was pretty difficult to separate by hand. It actually snapped together as opposed to whatever velcro normally does. Granted, I don't really know what your application is so this may not really help.

    Ryan

    #2015675
    Daryl and Daryl
    BPL Member

    @lyrad1

    Locale: Pacific Northwest, USA, Earth

    Colin,

    "I have some tiny (bracelet-sized) 3/8" side release buckles. I'm considering using these, with grosgrain, at 6" intervals to bear the load, with a strip of 1/2" wide hook and loop to keep any gaps closed"

    I don't think I could improve upon this combo.

    Daryl

    #2015679
    Jesse Anderson
    BPL Member

    @jeepin05

    Locale: Land of Enchantment

    What about some kind of system where you either attach a series of small rings via grossgrain or else small eyelets in the material itself. Then you could run a small, strong length of cordage through the rings/eyelets and lace the whole thing together. Don't know if that would work for what you have in mind, but it's probably as strong as any other connection you'll find. Of course, deployment could take a bit longer.

    #2015686
    Colin Krusor
    BPL Member

    @ckrusor

    Locale: Northwest US

    Ryan, I think hook and loop is an attractive option. I've considered looking for stuff like you describe. I know there is very strong hook and loop, although I've read that durability is negatively correlated to holding strength. The strongest hook and loop materials, I've heard, last only a few hundred cycles before the holding strength drops off. I'll keep it in mind, but right now I'm leaning toward options like buckles that might withstand use better.

    Jesse, I agree with you. Lacing would be the lightest and strongest option. I considered attempting to install bootlace hooks that loops of cordage could be looped over. The only general problem I see with lacing is the one you referred to: the fiddle factor. I might find it tedious to run laces through a bunch of hooks or eyelets every time I want to use the boat. But that option is pretty durable and it definitely wins for light weight and strength.

    I'm inclined to agree with Daryl at this point. A combination of small buckles and a non-load-bearing hook and loop flap seems to be the best option overall so far. Although lacing, strong hook and loop, and magnets all have their advantages.

    #2015701
    David Scheidt
    Member

    @dscheidt

    No, I suspect we both know what zippers and stitching do. It's just I don't understand what part of the raft you're talking about, nor why it needs to come apart. Knowing that would help to figure out what would be a good alternative.

    There are a surprising number of high-strength hook and loops around, which tend to optimized for particular uses. There are three ways H&L things comes apart: peel, shear, and tension. H&L optimized for one often does poorly in the others.

    #2015712
    Franco Darioli
    Spectator

    @franco

    Locale: Gauche, CU.

    A bit slower but a lot more secure version of the frog buttons is the Dutch Lacing.
    This is how it's done :

    YouTube video

    #2015722
    David Olsen
    Spectator

    @oware

    Locale: Steptoe Butte

    Someone posted making super light buttons punched from the top of caps of water or pop bottle lids. Then using a bit of gross grain with hot cut slits sewn to the other side. A hot cut slit in one side of the velcro with a button stitched to the other side might be a possibility at stress points. Maybe too fiddly.

    #2015818
    Tim Marshall
    BPL Member

    @marshlaw303

    Locale: Minnesota

    snaps, dependiong on your application and the direction of pull (the biggest factor in snap connection strength) a tiny snap can handle a serious load. I use size 20 kam snaps on my quilts and you can tear the tabs out before the snaps release, not what i was originally going for but they sure hold well. But if you pull it at the right angle it takes a tiny amount of force to open it so it really depends on the angle of pull. You can get much larger snaps than the size 20 too im sure

    -Tim

    #2015819
    Colin Krusor
    BPL Member

    @ckrusor

    Locale: Northwest US

    Franco, that Dutch lacing is clever and it looks very secure.

    I think, so far, it sounds like mini buckles and a lightweight hook and loop flap might be the winner for strength, low weight, and simplicity of use (relatively low fiddle factor).

    The application to my little packraft project is a bit difficult to explain, and I'm not sure it will work, anyway. So, rather than post a lot of illustrations and try at length to explain it, I'll just post photos when I have something to show.

    Thanks to everyone for the input.

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