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Bail for Titan Kettle
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Home › Forums › Gear Forums › Make Your Own Gear › Bail for Titan Kettle
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Apr 11, 2007 at 5:55 am #1222765
First time caller, long time listener.
I want to add a bail to my MSR titan Kettle, but other then the obvious drill a hole in each side and loop a wire, does anyone have another(less destructive) way that they have done this. I guess it could be any pot really, not just the Titan Kettle.
Thanks!
SteveApr 11, 2007 at 12:59 pm #1385585Doesn't the Titan kettle have handles? Anyway, another BPL poster, David Lewis fashioned a pot grabber, weighing 3 grams, for his Heineken keg can cookpot from a titanium rod (which you can buy from BPL). His original was made from a coat hanger, which should also work for you. You can check it out in this thread: http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=6459
And see details on his site here: http://davidlewis.ca/stove/
Apr 11, 2007 at 1:19 pm #1385589"Doesn't the Titan kettle have handles?"
Yes it does, I should have been more specific. I like to hang my pot over the fire (usualy with a stick in the ground) in the evening to boil water/melt snow without using up my fuel. Any creative ideas out there for performing this. I thought that the mechanism was called a bail, I could be mistaken.
Apr 11, 2007 at 2:38 pm #1385598Hi Steven-
Here's my setup. I started with a Base Designs 1L pot and removed the handles by breaking the welds. Then I shaped a bail out of a BPL Ti Ultrarod. I punched the holes in the pot with a sheet metal punch, but a small drill bit would work if you don't have a punch. The bail stands up by itself and folds down for storage. It's also easily removable, but I usually just leave it attached. Here's the kicker: The pot+bail+foil lid weights only 2.1 ounces for a 1L pot!
Apr 11, 2007 at 3:17 pm #1385603Michael – That's some good clean design there. The handle welds appear to come off quite easily. I had to take a Dremel tool to my Snowpeak 900mL!
Apr 11, 2007 at 3:23 pm #1385604Looks great Michael,
How did you break the welds?
Apr 11, 2007 at 3:29 pm #1385605>> How did you break the welds?
Well, I'd like to say it was a highly technical process involving a plasma torch and dental floss…
But the truth of the matter is I pulled hard on the handles and the handle plate just popped off. (From Sam's post, it looks like Snowpeak takes their welding more seriously.)
Cheers,
-Mike
Apr 11, 2007 at 3:55 pm #1385607Yeah, you can see from the photo that the welds were VERY difficult. I decided to break the last one rather than grind it with the Dremel and I ended up putting a hole in the wall of the pot. A dab of JB Weld fixed this right up however.
Apr 11, 2007 at 4:35 pm #1385614Hi Guys. Take a look at Bill Fornshell's thread here. It looks like many of us are thinking along the same lines. (Now if I could only get close to Bill's level of craftsmanship…)
Cheers,
-Mike
Apr 11, 2007 at 5:21 pm #1385619<>
What keeps the bail up?
Apr 11, 2007 at 6:11 pm #1385629Steve-
Here are concept pics of a bail added to a pot without drilling holes. It looks like it should work. You might use a small, stiff spring to connect the ends of the βgirthβ wire, so that it would be easily removable. This pot is a K-Mart Grease Pot (same lid and strainer as Wal-Mart pot but the rim rolls out) but should work on any pot with a rim.
Apr 11, 2007 at 7:17 pm #1385642Thanks Guys! Great feedback.
I'm going to give Lances' style try, and if I like it alot, I'll go with a more permanent solution a.k.a. drilling/punching the holes.
Steve
Apr 11, 2007 at 8:27 pm #1385658>> What keeps the bail up?
The Ti bail is bent to a larger radius than the pot. So, when installed in the pot holes, there is some spring tension that increases friction in the hole to keep it in place. The shape of the ends of the bail also help this effect.
Cheers,
-Mike
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