Ideal Alpine Shell

[Allen Butts]

Hey guys I'm extremely new to the world of alpinism, although being quite versed in regular ultralight backpacking. I'm trying to take my approach towards backpacking into alpinism, and i dont want to make any wrong purchases. I am looking for the best shell for:
-the weight (obviously)
-ice climbing/general mountaineering

Id like it to be as simple a shell as possible, athletic fit but still allows some room for light active layering. I've been looking into fabrics and as far as durability vs. weight goes goretex proshell or medium weight Event seem to be some of the favorites. If I could get some suggestions or advice to point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated. Also not trying to break the bank on this purchase so please take price into account (<$300 if possible).

[Brian Austin]

Ideal shell for ice climbing? Fleece. Not a "rain shell". The new fleece stuff(Scholer etc) made from, take your pick of manufacturer that is highly wind resistant and essentially water proof. Its fairly cheap and rugged. Underlayers of power stretch fleece as well.

Ice climbing is a high exertion sport. You will need to get rid of that sweat, then get to belay and throw on a giant puffy piece. A rain shell is not a good solution. You will not be climbing when it is warm out and therefore its below freezing and the worst you have to fend off is snow. Said new types of fleece are essentially water proof and breathe wonderfully.

Or just go with cheep 200 fleece or power stretch and a wind jacket(my favorite combo). Highly breathable and multifunctional.

You don't need expensive clothes to have fun or get by. Especially in winter. Caveat(Giant Puffy piece) that goes over ALL your layers and covers your butt as well insulated with either Down, or primaloft 1.

If its raining in winter time, stay HOME! The Ice will be a death trap waiting to kill you as it softens up and avalanches are highly likely as well.

[Allen Butts]

Sorry i dont think i specified enough. I'm looking for something for pretty high altitudes (winter summits of 14ers to be exact), it may involve some degree of ice climbing in which case i do have a fleece for that, (i actually typically climb in my R1 hoody) but more so for mountaineering and heavy snowfall. I am planning on doing some winter backpacking with the shell as well. Thanks for your advice though and i completely agree with you.

Currently I have a Marmot Goretex performance shell that i love, but it has worn out and frayed over the past 4 years of pretty intensive use. Im looking for something similar except quit a bit lighter seeing as my old shell weighs in at 25 ounces.

[Dave Ploessel]

Hi Allen. I've made a hobby of winter 14ers the last few years.

You need to be prepared for very very cold, but also something very breathable as climbing makes you hot, and quickly (if you are me at least).. As such, breathability and windproof are key features in your shell..

What has worked best for me is to wear a soft shell with pit zips to help with cooling while climbing, and also carry a thick hooded puffy to pull out and layer on top when I stop.

The Stoic "welder" shell comes in a less insulated "low" model, and a more insulated "high" model – That's what I'm running. Typical retail on them is mid-high 200s, but they go on sale periodically for well under 100 bucks -I got mine for 60something. It's a great shell and has been my go to the last few times I've climbed. It's a good combo of breathability and wind/weather resistance.

During winter climbs, I run a merino LS as a base layer, then the welder, (When it's super cold I can layer a LS fleece between the base and the shell, but haven't yet had to (been down to approx -10F).)
When I stop to rest, etc, I pull out one of my down parkas and layer it on top of the shell for added warmth.

Everyone has their own system, but that's what works well for me.

[Dave Ploessel]

oh, and when it comes to warmth, I've found it better to err on the side of too warm for winter alpine stuff. Winter is not the time to get caught with your pants down insulation wise.

[Brian Austin]

Frankly, in winter time you can get away with anything if it is cold out. They originally climbed Everest with Cotton shelled jackets lighter and warmer than wool…

Sorry, not sure what you are getting at. Let me take a stab.

Seems what you really want is a very durable hard shell for rain/wind. Snow will blow off of anything if it is dry so, kinda a non starter. Frankly all of the lightweight shells they sell today(I have one for kayaking and weekend warrior summer time mountaineering) wear out very quickly on the shoulders due to pack rubbing as they don't put heavy duty nylon there. This effectively limits you to very expensive jackets with 3000 bells and whistles on them making them heavy. Or just pay the piper and buy jackets more often. I have not seen a lightweight option other than essentially what you already own and exact similar in the stores that fits the bill.

PS. In winter time I still wear my Goretex Marmot Alpinist jacket for this exact reason, buff shoulders for rubbing of pack to get to base camp. Dump gear, take a small summit pack and fleece/wind jacket combo and head for the peaks.

[jason quick]

…don't forget Westcomb are releasing their new eVent Focus LT Hoody in November…new eVent DVL technology that is suppose to be even more breathable, strong and even lighter.

http://www.westcomb.com/product/jackets/103/focus-lt-hoody.html

A fully featured jacket that looks like a winner to me!

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