velcro to stop bag/mat from slipping?

[Bob Ellenberg]

wondered if anyone has tried small patches of velcro between their sleeping bag and mat/mattress or between the pad and the tent floor to prevent slippage? Thought of trying and decided to see if others had experience with it.

[EndoftheTrail]

Between pad and tent floor — in lieu of velcro, try painting strips of lines with seam sealant — either on your pad or on the tent floor itself.

Between pad and bag — a pair of straps works really well for me. My sleeping bag did not come with loops for the straps, so I added them myself.

[Yoyo]

Ben,

How'd you add the loops? Pic? How much did the loops and traps add to your bag weight?

I'm also trying to figure out a way to keep my Western Mountaineering Cloudrest pillow from slipping around but am reluctant to add sticky velcro to the fabric (Pertex?).

[EndoftheTrail]

David:

I used the cords that came with my MontBell stuff sacks (I don't use stuff sacks for my bags when packing). The straps and cords together weigh just under 1 oz.

Good — I'm a side sleeper who turn from side to side all night. With the bag's bottom anchored to my pad, I turn inside my bag. No more worries about the bottom of the bag turning up along with me and letting cold air through prior to regaining its loft.

Bad — A minor nuisance — the zipper on my older model (725fp) MontBell is normally fussy to work with as it can get itself caught in the fabrics. With the straps, I have to be even more careful with zipping up.

If you are interested in adding straps, I highly recommend that you go to REI and look at their bags, which come with straps. Study where the loops are positioned and copy accordingly. In my case, adding two loops on the zipper side was easy — I sew the loops directly on the zipper material, but completely out of the way of the zipper path. On the side opposite the zipper, I dare not open up any of the seams, so I simply sew the loops directly onto the bag fabric (bunched up a tiny, tiny bit) — making sure not to affect the down lofting in any way. For added strength and to prevent down escape from my sewing lines, I added a dab or two of seam sealant.

It's been two years now, and the loops held up beautifully — no tearing and no down escapes.

As for pillow, in lieu of velcroing pillow and bag, consider velcroing pillow and pad instead — leaving the bag alone.

[Roleigh Martin]

I wonder how insect netting in the shape of a potato sack with the bottom 2' of the sleeping pad and on top of the pad but inside the "potato sack insect netting" is you inside your sleeping bag, bottom 2 feet of you. Would that do the trick — seems like you'd be able to toss and turn but still stay on pad. You'd probably want to have velcro on bottom side of pad edges hold to the "potato sack top edges". Wonder where you could get enough insect netting to convert to a potato sack and how much this would weigh — you'd hope not much.

Perhaps the whole "potato sack" could be dual use purpose as a top half bug protection system too.

[mark henley]

Brawny used to carry a product like this at Dancing Light Gear, before they went out of business. I bought one but found that since I toss and turn a lot at night the bug net kept getting twisted up from where the cord lock was around my middle.

I switched to a Meteor bivy instead.

[mark henley]

half of a 1/8 inch thinlight pad will keep everything in place …. for about 0.7 ounces. Just put it under your other pad

[Art Sandt]

The thinlight pad is what I'd recommend. I don't know about 0.7 ounces.. Mine weighs more like 2 ounces. Maybe if you cut it in half. The pad has a very tacky surface, and will add warmth to your sleep system, so it's win-win.

[Lynn Tramper]

We've been using velcro for years now to keep our bags (WM PODS) or double quilt firmly attached to our sleeping pads. We use Uretahne Bond glue to attach the velcro to the mats, and sew matching velcro to the bags or quilt. Works perfectly every time. Should be standard on all bags IMHO.

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