MYOG 5 Yards to SUL – Tarp Question

[Sam Haraldson]

Okay, everything has been going along fine thus far. I've cut the pieces, sewed the ridgeline and am ready to attach the beaks.

I opted to make the ridgeline of my version longer than the pattern called for. In doing so it made the angle of the beak pieces different than the original pattern. I'm worried that if I sew the beaks on now there will be slack fabric in them when the tarp is pulled taut.

In the diagram I drew above, if I was to flip Part A over and then slide it under Part B do the red and green lines need to match up? The pieces I have currently do not line up in that fashion which is what leads me to believe there would be tautness issues.

Comments please as I'm not spatial enough to imagine this in my head and I had trouble getting my CAD program to extrude these shapes.

[Sam Haraldson]

No love : (

[Adam Kilpatrick]

We all love you Sam, perhaps we are all not intelligent enough to answer your question! I am in the (slow, lazy) process of making a spin tarp myself. So far I have cut it to size. Wow! Mine is going to be a simple flat tarp-not game to try anything with panels or curves!

Good luck mate! :)

[Sam Haraldson]

Adam,

It's good to know I'm still loved. I put the tarp project on hold until I'm certain about my next seams but am anxious to finish it up. I'm really excited about putting the beaks on the tarp as that's what I've always felt like I've been lacking my two years of tarp experience. Thanks for your comments and bet of luck to you in your endeavors.

– sam_h

[Benjamin Smith]

Hey Sam,

I bet that Jay will chime in when he's back from his trip. I'm with Adam – I'm not quite smart enough to visualize it either. I think I mentioned this in the previous thread, but have you tried mocking it up with paper or cardboard? That's the only surefire way for me to wrap my geometry-challenged brain around it.

Ben

[Sam Haraldson]

Lucky Jay is on a trip, huh? You did make some helpful suggestions in the other thread, yes, Ben. I hadn't considered mocking it up with paper or other fabric – – not sure why that didn't cross my mind, as it's an excellent idea! I'll give that a go this weekend. After I figure this it should be only another evening or two of sewing until completion.

[Frank Deland]

It looks as though the sides of B do not form a straight line, but are at an angle back from the center seam. Is that right, or is that edge of the tarp a straight line, making it a true rectangle?
The point of the beak on the edges will probably stick out beyond the edge, but just cut it off. If you made the tarp wider than the plan, the beaks might even fit better, but might not go all the way to the edge of the tarp. When you sew on the first edge of the beak, the center seam and unsewn edge of the beak will be at an odd angle to the unsewn edge of the tarp. Both seam and edge will straighten out when you sew them together. When you sew the first edge of the beak on, start (or stop) the stitch at the edge of the center seam of the tarp. Do not sew over either the seam of the tarp or the center seam of the beak. The beak seam needs to be able to swivle up to match the center seam before you attach the other edge of the beak. I think you will see this when you align edge A and B. The center line of the beak will not be parallel to the center line of the tarp. This confusing explanation will be more clear when you start to line up the edges of tarp and beak! Try pinning the beak on before you sew, maybe that will answer your question.
If your anticipation of problem is correct, just square off the tarp edges. I think otherwise, the beaks might droop too much.

[Jay Ham]

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "match up".

When constructing my tarp, when I flipped and placed A underneath B, prior to sewing, the top of A's triangle is definately has differnt angles than the top of B's triangle. In that sense they do not match up. Why not? I wanted the overhang to hang down at a steeper angle than the ridge line, rather than stick out at the same angle as the tarp's ridgeline, to better enclose the tarp's end.

So, if I understand your question, the two do not match up and that's okay. Let me know if I misunderstood your question or didn't make sense in my answer. :)

Jay
MYOG

[Sam Haraldson]

Frank –

Thanks for the tip in regards to the center seam, I think that will be helpful.

Jay –

You understood my question as I'd hoped, thanks for the input.

– sam_h

[Andy Berner]

Edit: Doh! O man. old post…. lol. My intentions was to do a search for myog tarp and as I read this thread I decide to add my input. After actually spending time to do this I notice the thread date. O well hopefully this will help others understand. lol

Here is my 2 minute model for some help.

Flip the hangover part over(A).

Now if you fold the main part of the tarp hotdog style and fold the hangover the same way. This is what you get.

By doing this you can not just lay the tarp flat on the ground. It will be bunched up funny if you try to lay it flat where the two pieces connect.

Now to change the hang over if you change the angle of the main tarp. This will change your overhang.

The difference.

Hopefully that helps your understanding.

[Sam Haraldson]

I've had my tarp in the field for over two years now but your model may be helpful to others in the future ; )

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