MYOG 20-ish liter daypack

[Dave Richardson]

Howdy all,

Some of you may remember reading my first post (about an earlier pack project) so pardon the familiar color scheme; I had some X-Pac ripstop (a fabric I've come to love–just over 4oz a yard, crazy abrasion resistant, tremendous strength and tear resistance, and completely waterproof, plus it has a nice stiffness to give packs structure) and breathable meshes leftover from that 55+ multiday pack project and decided to put it to use.

Since that first project, I've put together a MYOG hammock and a daypack for my girlfriend, and–looking over my just-finished product–I'm happy to report that that old mantra about practice has some truth to it.

Anyway, the goals of this project were:

-between 19-22 liters capacity
-weight under 10 ounces
-removable backpanel–that the pack can be balled up and stuffed in a multiday pack, or airline carry-on, or locker (my other daypack has an aluminum frame, which was not worth it's weight in…weight)
-dual closure (one super fast, the other more secure/compressing) that is all but completely rain proof in either configuration (I was disappointed in simple drawstring ultralight daypacks, in that there's a big hole-for-rain at the top of the silo)
-fully hydration compatible, with rain-sheltered hydration port
-waterproofness short of submersion, sitting in a puddle, or seriously prolonged deluge
-more bulletproof than any comparably light pack on the market

If I really wanted to get serious about the waterproofing, I'd fully seamtape the two "U" seams running from the back to front on either side. But, to test, I stuffed the pack with some cotton t-shirts, battened down the hatches and hosed the pack for a while, and almost no moisture managed to find it's way inside the pack, so I'm not going to bother.

So, without further ado, some pictures:

This is the pack closed with the "more secure" closing option (ratcheting the top closure down to the bottom of the pack). I would roll that drybag style top once or twice more if I were expecting any kind of weather, but I wanted to illustrate max capacity.

The back, bottom, and front panel are all the same sheet of X-pac (the more stressed fabric seam of most packs is the one that connects the bottom panel to the front panel, making it all one panel eliminated that seam).

Here's the inside, where you can see the resultant "U" seams, and my hydration loop, and elastic restraint:

Again,
Closed with the quick-close configuration.

Pack open.

Rain shield for hydration port.

Shot of the reinforced buttonhole slit for the hydration tube.

Shot of the removable backpanel.
Last shot.

All the weight bearing components are box stitched and double bartacked, through at least three layers of X-Pac.

Hope you guys like it!

[Christopher Zimmer]

Hey Dave nice job, the pack looks great. I like the way you made a U shape with the black xpac, having less seams at the bottom of the pack will really help keep water out and will add strength to the bottom of the pack. Like the colors too. Nice Job!

[Clint Wayman]

Hey Dave,

Great looking pack! It looks sorta like a 'beefed-up' MLD Newt– which has a GREAT design, so why not emulate?! As well, as is ALWAYS the question here, what is the final weight? I know you were shooting for sub-10 oz, but I would almost guess that with all the hardware AND back-pad it would come in at slightly OVER 10? Keep up the good work!

Clint

And COOL idea for strapping in the bladder!

[Dave Richardson]

I hadn't seen the Newt, but I just looked into it and it does look pretty cool.

Total pack weight with the backpanel is 11oz–so a hair over what I hoped for. I could lose the backpanel, long side release buckle straps down the side (stick with just the drybag closure at the top), the sternum strap, and the cord lashing, and come up with a weight around 7 oz, but for the features/toughness, I can rationalize carrying an extra ounce or two.

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