Forum Replies Created
- Apr 25, 2018 at 7:53 pm #3532202
Regarding DWR, it’s worth clearing up a few things.
Apr 7, 2018 at 2:57 pm #3529242
- There is no C6 or any other DWR treatment on the outside face of this fabric. The outside face (polyester fiber + polymer adhesive nonwoven layer) is hydrophobic, but not in the surface tension sense. It’s hydrophobic in that there is no “structure” or “interstitial spaces” (like on a woven nylon or polyester) where water can creep in and wet out the surface. Water does not “bead” up on the surface like it does with a DWR-treated surface. That said, the outside face of the fabric does get “wet” but it doesn’t “wet out” like a woven, a few shakes of the jacket or wiping off the surface with a cloth leaves an almost imperceptibly thin film of water only, and this dries very fast when it’s not raining. Importantly, this doesn’t really impact breathability. Contrary to popular belief, a layer of water on the outside face of a fabric doesn’t “dramatically” inhibit the transport of water vapor molecules through a WPB membrane. Rescue swimmers wearing WPB dry suits who spend long times submerged in the water report that during periods of high activity, they sweat, and in periods of low activity, they dry out. Makes sense – you’re not pushing water drops through the WPB membrane, you’re driving molecules. Wetted out face fabrics are problematic for body heat loss, because the “wetter” (more water) in your clothing, the more body heat is lost to drive the evaporation of that water.
- There is a C6 fluorocarbon DWR treatment on the inside surface of the eVENT membrane – the surface that faces the body. The purpose of this DWR is to avoid wet out of the eVENT membrane due to perspiration and condensation of water vapor. My experience so far has been that this is a very durable treatment when applied directly to the inside of an eVENT membrane. Even after extended wear of this jacket that has included sweating in it, wearing heavy packs, etc., the C6 is holding up well. Now, I haven’t tested it in the context of being a grossly dirty thru-hiker, so … FWIW.
Hi Doug – details can be found in the Forum Guidelines in the “Commercial Interests” section.Apr 6, 2018 at 7:41 pm #3529084
Richard, are these stereoscope images? What are you using?
I’ve been thinking about upgrading my stereoscope to something that is digital so I can capture water movement in textiles with video.Apr 6, 2018 at 7:35 pm #3529083
I can’t believe I’m lumped into their oldest age category. Ugh.
The sharp edges on the Bearikade – yes – I have caused some damage to packs with this as well.
But there’s not a lot to improve on this canister, I’m very happy with mine.
My favorite bear can is an Ursack, however.
So I’ll use either one depending on where I’m hiking and what’s approved.
Can any weight be shaved off the Bearikade and still meet approval? Probably not likely, it would have to come in the form of thinner carbon walls. I watched some of these tests at the Grizzly Discovery Center in West Yellowstone, those grizzlies have some strong jaws, it’s remarkable.
The Bearikade is expensive and light, and works great.
The BV is cheap and heavier, and works great.
Seems like the three options we have cover most of the market, so this “new” canister will have to have a pretty compelling reason to compete:
1. as light as a Bearikade but cheaper;
2. as cheap as a BV but lighter.
3. as light and compact as an Ursack but approved everywhere.
When we start talking about stool comfort, easier closures, or adhesion of your favorite stickers, seems like an uphill battle for a marketer and a market that may not exist for a designer if it doesn’t address one of #1 to #3 above.*
(* or have an Arc’teryx logo on it, maybe, which might open up a whole new lifestyle bear canister market)Apr 6, 2018 at 7:22 pm #3529082
My favorite part of this discussion is that you are calling the transition to a simpler and less expensive product an “upgrade”.
Awesome.Mar 28, 2018 at 3:43 am #3527444
Years ago when we were looking at insulation for the old Cocoon UL line, I tested some Lamilite vs. unlaminated insulation (same insulation). There seemed to be a bit of loft degradation (20-25%?) that was a direct result of the lamination process. That, combined with a little bit of additional weight resulting from the lamination process itself (not sure why it was heavier), made Lamilite a poor warmth:weight ratio insulation.
Again, at the time – 10 years ago or so. Not sure what it’s like now, perhaps (hopefully) improved?
I did like that the insulation was somewhat stabilized – much better than loose batting. But I don’t know how it affected durability.
However, I think lamination benefits might be negated at the lightest weight end of the spectrum, after taking apart a Micro Puff and looking at the PlumaFill batts. Seems like that thread patterning actually works pretty darn well for stabilizing the batts. For thicker insulated jackets, you wouldn’t want sewn-through stitching so lamination might be a good way to go?
Anecdote: I did receive a *new* Wiggy’s bag from a BPL member about the same time, he had me inspect it because he thought it was too flat for the insulation weight. I remember thinking that the loft on it was pretty low for the insulation used.
Mar 28, 2018 at 12:43 am #3527418
- This reply was modified 4 weeks, 1 day ago by Ryan Jordan.
Also, a huge thanks to everyone for the overwhelming response to the podcast – we debuted on iTunes today in the Top 10 (#5!) and our download stats have exceeded our wildest expectations. Enjoy the podcast, we’ve already started working on the next two episodes :)Mar 28, 2018 at 12:41 am #3527417
@bryanb that’s a good strategy. I’ve moved away from “tiny” packs towards packs that do allow me to have a “lightly” compressed puffy bag (containing my sleep bag and puffy clothes). Even down at the bottom of my pack, putting stuff on top doesn’t seem to really do much. What causes the damage – stuffing the jacket into tiny nooks and crannies in your pack, putting them in too small of a stuff sack, or (worst of all) a compression sack.Mar 27, 2018 at 5:42 pm #3527353
If it can be assumed that seam taping, zippers, closures, and DWR are not part of the equation here, then ocean fishermen probably have the only claim to waterproof: 0.5mm PVC – like the kind they wear in those snazzy yellow bibs and long jackets. PVC coatings on fabrics have hydrostatic head resistance in the range of 100,000 mm.
That’s generally 3-10X higher than what we see in “waterproof-breathable” fabrics.
100,000 mm is a LOT of pressure.
Water can be pushed through a 10,000 mm textile by kneeling, sitting, or maybe the pressure of pack straps with a heavy load.
And water can wick/seep (whatever you want to call the capillary movement of it) through 2k-30k membranes if they are wetted out with moderate pressure. But when this happens, that also means that the pores of the membrane are full of water and the fabric can’t breathe, so moisture accumulates on the inside of the fabric as well – these processes are very difficult to sort out – which one is dominant in a wetted out jacket?
The only “really waterproof” (!) “breathable” jacket/pant combo I’ve personally tested is a set made from the newest version of Gore-Tex Pro. I actually had a very difficult time getting that fabric to fail through the normal pressures of carrying a heavy pack, and kneeling on mushy ground. It seemed as breathable as any other “waterproof-breathable” jacket, which was “not a lot” but certainly noticeably better than fabrics from a decade ago.
But that jacket has a weight of 18 oz, so … seems a bit out of the range of “light” for many of us. Also, GTPro jackets are enormously expensive, especially those that are well-made (bird).
Like anything else, I try to look at “waterproof-breathable” on a continuum of performance, and match what sort of performance I’d like to have to the conditions I expect, and then search for the piece of gear that accomplishes that at minimum weight.Mar 27, 2018 at 3:07 pm #3527335
Sam – post this idea in the MYOG forum, maybe for feedback. I made a baffled quilt doing exactly this, with Primaloft and the insulation fibers separated and I got a lot of cold spots.
On my second try, I chopped it up and filled the baffles like I would if it was down and it worked a lot better.
But this quilt didn’t survive stuffing and it’s far less durable than my EE Apex quilt, which uses continuous filament insulation stabilized in sewn/batted construction.
i always wondered if mixing down with short, loose synthetic fibers in baffled construction wouldn’t work.Mar 19, 2018 at 5:43 am #3525526
IMO, if you’re going to use a trekking pole for structure, you should figure out a way to use two poles, before you start adding other structural components.
If you’re carrying one, you’re probably carrying two.
The roof beam thingy adds a little (very little) function but not stability, and we really need stability out of these ultralight tents now.
Tarptent has so many things going for it – two pole designs (Notch, Stratospire), Pitchlok corners, and now DCF but there’s so much more to do:
- Fix the overlapping door closure / magnetic / velcro thing problem so high winds don’t blow the doors open;
- Add PitchLoks to the vestibule corners.
Two things. 3 oz of weight. Vast improvement in storm stability, cooking and storage space.Mar 19, 2018 at 5:34 am #3525519
This jacket really shines at the heaviest insulation option. So impressed with the numbers (warmth:weight ratio), esp. if you’re willing to ditch the extra features and heavier fabrics, and just include the hood.
Reminds me of the Cocoon UL philosophy: warmth:weight, everything else be damned.
Mike, your photo at the Basin Cr Cabin! Ack, the memories of that place. Spent a few nights there sleeping on the porch recovering from long-distance / bad weather misery. It’s a nice refuge. Happy times. But a hard-sided Nalgene for the BMWO? I’m impressed ;)Mar 19, 2018 at 5:23 am #3525513
Kat! You’ve left a legacy and impacted all of us in an incredibly positive way.
I have discovered a totally different side of wildlife appreciation through your work. Thanks for your dedication, commitment, and above all, sharing your experiences.
I’m just blown away by this “experiment” that you’ve taken on over the past few years.Mar 11, 2018 at 5:53 am #3523686
This is a really important “Thing”!
Lights and compass bearings and accurate maps – they paint a partial picture. We address this exact issue in detail in our Guides Course: https://backpackinglight.com/treks
But “trekking in the dark” (literally or figuratively) doesn’t have to be as scary as it sounds.
It really is a state of mind and your success can depend on a lot of skills as much as on your decision-making prowess.Mar 11, 2018 at 5:25 am #3523683
I’ve used them/ The usable space is terrific and they make a great “yurt-style” tent in *good* weather but in high winds, they are hard to stabilize – the sidewalls just make for a lot of loose fabric. Actually, the Hilleberg yurt-tents seem to be more stable – but at a lot more weight and with a lot more poles.Mar 11, 2018 at 5:17 am #3523680
I second @satori – The La Sportiva Ultra Raptors have been my go-to shoes for the past several years for off-trail scrambling where sole durability and traction on steep snow/tundra/scree + stickiness on rock/talus is critical.Mar 11, 2018 at 5:13 am #3523679
The S2S CL has completely revolutionized my backcountry sleep. It’s comfortable, easy to blow up, stable, and quiet. I’ve “graduated” from the Neo-Air XTherm to this pad now.
Something to consider, and experiment with, maybe.Mar 11, 2018 at 5:08 am #3523678
David Thomas wrote: “Or, if you’re carrying any extra body weight, you could lose that and see if it helps the sleep apnea.”
Only 10 lb of weight loss completely eliminated bad sleep for me.
In addition, I’ve moved to a full length pad and a decent pillow that allows me to side-sleep comfortable.
Stomach-sleeping on any kind of pad causes problems with my lower back – from an ’05 back injury where I broke my sacrum skateboarding. Ugh.
Now, if I do stomach sleep, I have to put my pillow under my chest to relieve lower back strain.
It’s an individual experiment, and it all requires some time.
Be wary of anyone who has “prescriptions for your problems.”Mar 11, 2018 at 5:03 am #3523677
I’ve read about thru-hikers soaking their (grains, oats, noodles) over several hours but never tried it myself until today.
My breakfast was tasty. Thanks for the tip, David.
I have lots of new ideas now for no-fuel meals (at least in warm weather…I still think the value of fuel in cold temps is HIGH).
Also, a nod to the comment about lack of coffee and confusion. Duh.Mar 8, 2018 at 7:51 pm #3523201
This is a test with Mac / Safari.Mar 8, 2018 at 7:32 pm #3523188
Eric, <span> tags aren’t allowed. Try using the <u> and </u> tags, or use the U tooltip in the Visual editor.Mar 8, 2018 at 7:31 pm #3523186
test. (mac / chrome)Mar 7, 2018 at 5:50 pm #3522932
An iPhone 8 in a case is a tight squeeze in mine, but interestingly, it EASILY fits in the lighter Patagonia Nano Air LIGHT hoody…Mar 6, 2018 at 11:39 pm #3522788
This issue has been resolved and has been incorporated into the live site. It may take a few hours for the changes to propagate everywhere.Mar 6, 2018 at 11:33 pm #3522786
Interestingly, the Notch Li appears to be quite a bit more stable than the Duplex in high winds.
I think for two reasons:
1. Smaller profile (less fabric that is broadside to wind);
2. The Duplex has giant rectangular end panels that are not very stable at all in high winds. There are guyline tieouts to the mid points of these panels but the angle to the ground is so narrow that they don’t do a lot to prevent the tent from buffeting.