Forum Replies Created
Aug 14, 2022 at 5:01 pm #3757372
Awesome! Congratulations and thanks for sharing!
For kids’ rain gear, I’ve had success with buying used Patagonia on craigslist, eBay or Patagonia’s WornWear, and then reselling it after they grow out of it at any of those places and buying the next size. It holds its value so well that you often come out even or close to it.Jul 8, 2022 at 7:50 am #3754639
Bonzo, I know Portland, ME was already mentioned–let me add that there is a growing community of worker-owned cooperative businesses there. It might be time to think outside of the boss.
Happy to talk more if you have questions.Jul 2, 2022 at 12:24 pm #3754228
Is there a better option for prefiltering floaters out of water than the toe of a stocking? I gathered water from a lake in the Sierras last summer and was surprised to see how many swimmers (mosquito larva?) I had gathered. This is less of a problem in streams of course.
Maybe iago will chime in to this thread again, but he hikes with a Coughlan’s Filter Funnel clipped to his pack. Collect the dirty water in one bottle, put the filter funnel in the mouth of the other bottle and pour the water through it, then use the Steripen on that bottle. Shake the drops off the funnel and clip it back to your pack. Smart and simple system, with no soggy stocking to deal with.Jun 27, 2022 at 5:45 am #3753783
Wow, Link, that MYO nose guard is fantastic! Love it! Thanks.Jun 16, 2022 at 6:59 am #3752276
The best-fitting pants in this category that I’ve found, lately, are the Flexpedition pants from Duluth Trading…but despite being labeled as a softshell, their DWR is non-existent. Near-instant wet-out from any amount of water, and I haven’t found any way to fix that.
Have you tried a wash-in or spray on DWR like Grangers?Jun 11, 2022 at 7:46 pm #3751850
I have a ZenBivy, so I tried a piece of 1/4″ grosgrain ribbon. It fits into the hooks, but doesn’t have that satisfying snap/lock into them like the appropriate sized cord would. So here’s a hybrid of Jeff’s and my ideas: Sew small squares of 3/4″ grosgrain ribbon through all layers of the quilt along 2 parallel sides. Then run cord through the channel between those two sew lines, and tie it in a small loop.Jun 11, 2022 at 12:14 pm #3751820
I like Jeff’s idea better than mine :)Jun 11, 2022 at 5:08 am #3751804
I would think tenacious tape circles with two holes melted in them would hold cord loops well, as they won’t be under a ton of tension (the wings on the ZenBivy sheet rise and fall as you move around). Alternatively, I have made a Ray-Way 2P quilt where you stabilize the insulation by sewing synthetic yarn loops with a large hand-sewing needle right through the shell and insulation; you could do something similar on your Climashield quilt but make the loops a little bigger to clip into the hooks.Jun 11, 2022 at 5:03 am #3751803
The Gila has an adjustable torso and a hipbelt bolted to the frame that can carry heavy weights–over 100 pounds. The Flight Two has an internal frame that does not connect to the hipbelt, so its max load is much lower, and it does not have an adjustable torso, but you can choose between 2 torso sizes.
The Flight 2 is 3700 cubic inches, the Gila is 3500 ci.
The Gila looks to be about 5 ounces heavier than the Flight 2 when both are made of Ultra. The Flight 2 only comes in Ultra fabric; the Gila has the option of Ultra or the less-expensive EPLX400 Ecopak.
I don’t own either of these packs but I’ve read a lot about them. There are some great threads on here about the Flight series. I don’t remember there being many threads about the Gila, but it uses the same frame system as the Divide and the Unaweep, and I know there are reviews of those on here.
Good luck with your search. Hopefully some owners of these packs will chime in.Jun 7, 2022 at 4:27 am #3751383
Just want to add a +1 thanking you, Matthew, for your moderation, and your focus on BPL being an inclusive and welcoming space. I appreciate you! I’ve enjoyed our conversations very much, and hope we get to hike together some day.
I don’t think that generosity and respect necessarily lead to mushiness. We can disagree and share different points of view without picking a fight or name-calling. And maintain a healthy skepticism of gear companies’ claims, basing our judgments of them on real-world experience and data.May 10, 2022 at 6:03 pm #3749035
I also have the Schnozzel and a Nemo Tensor Insulated. The first few times I tried it, the Schnozzel popped off, but with a little practice, squeezing the air from the Schnozzel out a little slower than one might expect, it doesn’t pop off anymore–it’s no problem. It just takes a little experimentation to get the feel for it. You could also try wrapping a little plumber’s tape/ teflon tape to increase the width of the Schnozzle valve slightly to help it seal better.Apr 9, 2022 at 3:48 pm #3745791
I would definitely suggest trying it or having them show you how it works on fabric before purchasing, if at all possible (I realize it could be through a local classifieds/ selling list page where you’ll meet in some public place). $50 sounds good but getting it serviced is considerably more expensive. If the machine wasn’t cleaned regularly, the insides could be jammed up with dust and gunk, and I know locally for me it costs $150 for a thorough cleaning of an older machine that hasn’t been well-maintained. “In working condition” has me a little worried that the seller was not the original owner and may be cleaning out their parents’ basement and did a very cursory check that the machine turns on; the best used machine sellers will usually report on how the machine was used and how regularly it was cleaned. At one point I had several sewing machines that various people had given to me (free sewing machines! sounded great!) that all needed some degree of work or hard-to-find parts. I finally let go of them, keeping only my grandmother-in-law’s never-fail Singer Featherweight from the 1940s, and a Necchi Lydia free-arm machine that has all the features I want but that I’ll have to get serviced to get back into operation.
Make sure the hand wheel turns smoothly, the foot pedal wires are in good shape (not frayed), the needle is responsive to the foot pedal (starts and stops immediately upon pressing and releasing the pedal), and that the needle moves smoothly without any grinding noises. Good luck!Mar 3, 2022 at 4:20 am #3742145
2 ideas come to mind:
-sewing a lightweight lash tab (those little patches with the two vertical cuts) beneath the buckle and running a zip tie through it and over the uppermost part of the buckle (so you can still freely squeeze it to unclip). You may have to sew a horizontal line across the slits to reduce the opening size so the zip tie doesn’t slip down.
-sewing a piece of grosgrain horizontally over the buckle to hold it place–you may have to experiment with the tension of the ribbon in order to be able to unclip it. I have a Kelty pack that uses this method to hold the buckles in place and you just squeeze through the ribbon to unclip.
I hope I’m explaining these clearly.
(Thanks for the shout out, iago!)Feb 12, 2022 at 4:24 am #3739997
I love my Costco Triple Star Down Parka–tons of loft and warmth, ultralight, highly compressible, very silky fabric, and purchased new for $30. They are discontinued now, but frequently show up on eBay, and you might be able to find one here on Gear Swap since they were popular here 10 years ago. This thread talks about sizing (doesn’t work for big and tall folks). Good luck.Jan 22, 2022 at 4:05 am #3737624
When I’m winter camping and have a fire, and want to protect my parka, I put a secondhand wool dress shirt (because the dress shirts are the lightest weight–like a Sir Pendleton) that’s a size or two larger over the top when I get to camp. This also protects it from brush, thorns or anything else that might rip it. That way I have durability and protection when I want it, and a lighter weight parka when I don’t need to bring that extra protection. I know that doesn’t directly answer your question though–it’s a workaround :)Jan 21, 2022 at 5:04 am #3737545
What a great thread! Thomas, thanks for the loop lock idea–I love the idea of all plastic buckles being able to be replaced.
I’ve been happily using a cut-down baby carrier frame as a load-hauler:Jan 20, 2022 at 3:31 am #3737427
Roger, I think Doug’s talking about climbing skins? That’s an awesome upcycling idea for a damaged set of skins.
Paul, you may want to consider overbooties/ shells with grippy soles to go outside with your down booties, so you can remove them when you’re back in your tent and avoid getting snow and dirt in your sleeping bag. There’s some on Gear Swap now a few pages in (I’m not affiliated with the seller) but you can also find DIY examples online using Tyvek booties.Jan 11, 2022 at 3:43 am #3736626
Luke, congrats on the new family!
I see a bunch of Helly Hansen rain jackets on eBay for $20-40, but you have to recognize by sight which are the fully waterproof ones. I used to have one of their non-breathable rain jackets that I found at a thrift store for a couple bucks; wish I hadn’t let it go. Good luck!Jan 8, 2022 at 11:33 am #3736452
Dan, I appreciate your information on SketchUp and flattening for patterns and hope you do keep posting here. Thanks!Jan 6, 2022 at 3:17 am #3736231
Dan, is it Sketchup Pro that you use? Does the flattening function come built in or is it a plug in? Thanks!Jan 3, 2022 at 5:47 pm #3736053
Try this, the Sockel (thanks to Chris Bell):
It is an essential piece of gear for me on winter trips now.Dec 15, 2021 at 4:21 am #3734824
I learned from Luke Schmidt’s article to sew webbing on the back of the pack as you describe, then sew ladderlocks on the tops of my shoulder straps and buckle them on to the webbing. Luke did this to be able use a favorite set of shoulder straps between different pack bags, but I found that this also allowed me to play with the length of the webbing for really dialing in precise fit. I did this on my MYOG airbag pack. I didn’t sew the webbing into a straight horizontal seam, rather into a reinforcement patch that matched my shoulder angle, but this has me thinking that maybe that’s unnecessary with the play of the webbing. I have done a similar thing with my frameless, hipbelt-less pack, but with a much shorter length of free webbing between the pack and the straps. Take a look at the ZPacks Sub-Nero for an example of this on such a pack. Best of luck!Nov 16, 2021 at 3:30 am #3732375
Mike, maybe try Repair Lair in MN?
I was going to link to Santa Cruz Gear Repair too, but it looks like he had to close up shop.Sep 19, 2021 at 5:12 pm #3727778
Thanks, all, for your help!Sep 19, 2021 at 4:29 pm #3727776
You could always send the original shirt to InsectShield for a new permethrin treatment. https://www.insectshield.com/pages/insect-shield-your-clothes