Base layer

[Michael M]

I was wondering if anyone ever tried to make their own base layer. I want to make my own merino wool base layer in a midweight and was curious if anyone had ever tried before and had any progress with it

[Jerry Adams]

I’ve done it with Supplex Nylon.  Use it all the time.  Basically, I took a shirt I liked and made a pattern out of it.

Sewing the arms onto the body is interesting.  I start at the shoulder and work to the armpit, then do the other side going from shoulder to armpit.  You can hide mistakes at the armpit.

I used French seams.  First sew the pieces together right side out, then turn inside out and sew again hiding the raw edges.  Neat seam inside the shirt where you don’t see it.

[Edward John M]

Tops No Pants a definite Yes

DIY lets you do things like bag the knees, double up on the fabric add wind protection in specific strategic targeted locations. Knees and crutch for me and get the length correct as well as using gusseted crutch to maximise freedom of movement

My beloved wife sewed them for me on the overlocker and we used PolarTec Powerstretch pro from Mill Yardage and to her consternation I insisted on seams on the outside which is much more comfortable

[Kattt]

Edward can you tell me more about the Power stretch?

peter v. sent me a few yards of their Power Wool and we were very hopeful but it is the type of fabric that gets caught on rough hands and that makes it a big no no here. How does the Power Stretch feel? Does it get caught on a callus or a hang nail?

thanks, Katharina

[Kattt]

Btw, since Edward brough up seams on the outside…why on earth would baby clothes, of all things, be soft on the outside but have rough seams on the inside??

[Jordo _99]

I did something similar…I took a merino wool base layer and used it as a template to create a technical fitting wind-shirt:

My technical base layer is essentially this. It has a fantastic fitted feel to it so I wanted to make a jacket/wind shirt that fitted the same. To create the patterns I laid it out flat, placed some nylon it and traced around the seams to create my patterns (I did size them up slightly so that I could layer under it…the nylon didn’t stretch like merino wool does)

Sewing something like that up was a bit difficult and complicated but I ended up with a decent wind shirt for a prototype.

…the plan was to come back to this again in the future to create a technical rain jacket but I’ve yet to get around to it.

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If you are going from scratch, I’d recommend finding a pattern that uses a raglan sleeve if you don’t hate them (think, baseball shirt sleeves). They’re easier to sew and will allow a tighter fit and stretching in the arms…generally something from Green Pepper will work but I personally avoid their patterns (unless it’s a rain suit) because I prefer fitted clothes (I’m pretty slim).

[Edward John M]

Contact Mill Yardage and get a swatch

It feels pretty good against the skin and the hard face is smooth Don’t know about hang nails tho

Seams on the outside are a sign of somebody who prefers function to fashion usually but I just saw some very expensive jumpers from Field and Stream that were made that way so it must now be fashionable

[Gabe D]

I would check out the Rainshed. I bought some merino wool from them and made a base layer top and bottom. They have a good bit to choose from.

Making a base-layer is easy to do when working with stretch material as the stretch makes form fitting very forgiving, meaning you can basically work with flat/simple shapes.

When I first looked into making my base-layer I was nervous because all the patterns were so complicated looking. But now I believe most of that is nonsense and for aesthetics (modern looking) or to use fabric the most efficiently at on a large scale production. Of course complicated patterns may be that way for comfort too (at least to a degree), but whatever.

For my top I cut apart many good shirts to trace until I gave up and went with a simple rectangle for the body and a tapered rectangle for the arms. If you want to can taper the body when you are done to make it more snug where you need it. I also made sure to make the sleeves and the body longer than needed and trimmed them to what was ideal after I tried it on. (I have a super range of motion by doing this and don’t have to deal with the crap you get from mass produced base layers that are too short and expose your waist and forearms when you reach your arms up.)

For the bottom I found a guide online about making female leggings, which is basically the same thing. The guide may or may not have had a pattern from a crotch gusset, but regardless, it is mandatory that it is put in.

Check out these sites:

https://www.therainshed.com/shop/Fabrics/WARM-FABRICS/Wool/Merino-Blends.htm

https://so-sew-easy.com/leggings-pattern-tutorial/

https://www.shelbyoutdoor.com/?cPath=405_436&language=en

[Russell Lawson]

Getting ahold of a serger would make it look pro. Planning on doing the same thing this winter b wecause why pay so much for gear

[Edward John M]

Gear expensive>?

I was on 5th Avenue NYC last year and I saw a pair of shoes in a window at D&G for $6500- and a matching handbag for a similar amount. By comparison even Patagucci is giving clothes away

SYO Sew Your Own is about perfection of fit and features You won’t save any money doing it unless you get the fabric dirt cheap and you are given a sewing machine and overlocker

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