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UL Rocket Stove?
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Aug 12, 2008 at 6:25 pm #1230616
I've become totally fascinated with the concept of using an UL wood stove with no electric fan. Not sure why exactly. I've also become fascinated with the rocket stove (ala Winarski). Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a rocket stove that is pared down to hiking sizes.
Has anyone experimented with such? Is it practical?
Aug 13, 2008 at 12:10 am #1446876Hi Glenn,
plenty of threads on this forum about lightweight woodstoves, just have a look around. I made one some time ago which uses a food tin inside a syrup tin. 5oz and does quite well. Last week Steven posted a very light one he made from .005 titanium windsheild from TiGoat.Aug 13, 2008 at 6:58 am #1446905Rog,
I was referring specifically to this type of stove:
http://www.publik.dk/hotsummer/content/images/rocket_stove.jpg
Trust me, I've searched the forums here – no references to this type that I could find…..
Aug 14, 2008 at 8:11 am #1447077see my post: "my high efficiency wood burner & two cents worth on wood stoves".
It's built around the insulated firebox principle of the rocket stove. It was necessary to make some modifications for outdoor backpacking use.
The air intake on my stove is on the bottom to make operation less variable in windy conditions. Firebox door was eliminated because it adds complexity, decreases efficiency and adds weight. Instead of stoking fire through a door the new procedure is: Lift pot, drop in more wood, lower pot.
Efficiency is close to 70%.
Aug 14, 2008 at 9:37 am #1447088actually I had seen that before, but was put off by the rivets, as I have no rivet gun. Now that I've read through it again, I like the design. I see someone in that thread referring to a PDF file but I see no links……
Aug 14, 2008 at 5:13 pm #1447150This link should open the .PDF.
http://www.repp.org/discussiongroups/resources/stoves/Pcia/
Design%20Principles%20for%20Wood%20Burning%20Cookstoves.pdfIf it doesn't, Google "Design Principles for Wood Burning Cook Stoves" and you'll get links to it.
Even if you get a pop-rivet tool, you'll find they're a royal pain for this application. It's extremely difficult to get all the holes to line up. I just finished a rivetless version. It was a heck of a lot easier to assemble and looks nicer (to me), but I needed a MIG welder to put it together. The Rivet tool only costs a couple of bucks so you pay your money and take your choice.
You might be able to find someone with a welder who can make the final assembly for you. The photo's below show my latest stove including sub-assemblies to give you a better idea of how it's made. If you look at these and the previous post you should get a pretty good idea of how its built.
I used gallon, half gallon and pint paint cans which can be had on the web. The cans just make it easier to build. You can make it from 0.01" galvanized steel and aluminum if you need to save money.
Note the handle on the chimney of this version. It comes in handy when the wind shifts. Fellow campers aren't always appreciative of being down wind unless there's bugs about. With a little care, you can move the stove without burning yourself.
Firebox
Insulated firebox
Configured for cooking. Chimney mounted on firebox, feet extended, pot in place.Aug 14, 2008 at 5:34 pm #1447152oh, THAT PDF – I've already seen that one.
Rivets or welding, either one, involves tools and/or layers of complexity I was hoping to avoid. I'll have to see what I can come up with as a substitute. Heck, I may go back to plain coffee can design.
Thanks for the links and pictures!
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