Mar 4, 2014 at 7:39 pm #1314033
Giving credit where credit is due, I believe Dan Yeruski figured out how to do it first; Trail Designs figured out a way to do it too; and I have finally also figured out a way to fabricate ridges into Foster's cans. The lowest ridge is 4 oz, the second ridge is 8 oz, the third ridge is 12 oz, and the top ridge is 16 oz (also Dan's idea). As a side benefit, the fabrication process removes nearly all of the BPA plastic film inside the cans.
[edited to pay homage to Dan Yeruski and Trail Designs]Mar 4, 2014 at 7:57 pm #2079530Mar 4, 2014 at 8:27 pm #2079536
Yeah, Dan/Zelph's ridged Foster's cans are great. He's figured out a different way to do it. But, I believe they still have the plastic lining. Also, my tests indicate that brushed cans absorb heat better than cans with the shiny original finish.Mar 4, 2014 at 9:03 pm #2079549
David, looks nifty. Is your method a secret ?Mar 4, 2014 at 9:37 pm #2079558
As tempted as I have been to describe the various methods I tried and what I finally came up with, I'm trying to make and sell ultralight products so I guess it's proprietary.
Not that it would be easy to replicate, since it required access to a full metal shop (my Dad's). Trail Designs told me their method is proprietary. It never occurred to me to ask Dan how he does it, but I think I remember a post in some thread where someone asked Dan how he did it and he declined to reveal his method. If my recollection is wrong, I stand corrected.
I will say that I tried a couple of commercially available bead rollers, and they did a very nice job of crinkling and cutting the cans. I gave some thought to making custom dies for one of the bead rollers, and may still try it, but it doesn't solve the problem of making multiple ridges at the same time with precise spacing to indicate the fluid levels. Nor does it resolve the issue of the BPA plastic lining.
I will also say that some of the key parts are available at any well-stocked hardware store, and part of the process can be duplicated in most kitchens.Mar 4, 2014 at 9:57 pm #2079567
Understood. Well, they look good!Mar 4, 2014 at 10:31 pm #2079575
@jonfongLocale: FLAT CAT GEAR
Nice job David! glad to see someone figured out how to get rid of the plastic liner.Mar 5, 2014 at 6:33 am #2079607
Wow!!! ridges look great :-)
I have revealed the method I use in a thread here on BPL. It is basically what is shown on the "Instructibles" site. I added a thing or two to make sure of repeatability.
There are numerous online publications that state BPA is removed from the lining of cans during the process of canning the product within them. The canning process requires the food to be placed into the cans, then heated to approximately 180 degrees for a certain length of time and then the lid is applied. During the process, the BPA leaves the lining and enters the food.
That information came out years ago. I seriously doubt that can manufactures today are using BPA in their can linings after all the public concerns that we've heard about over the years.
We are doomed to hear of complaints about BPA, Alzheimers and aluminum, wood burning stoves made of zinc plated metal and maybe some other things that I have forgotten. It will never end :-(
I have the ability to make stoves like you and flatcatgear make. I have the ability to make Caldera Cones and conical windscreens. When do you think I should start manufacturing them to be included in my store?Mar 5, 2014 at 6:57 am #2079616
I hope I am posting this link properly:
Definitely a project that can be accomplished (with difficulty) DIY…Mar 5, 2014 at 11:58 am #2079754
Is this the link?Mar 5, 2014 at 12:47 pm #2079788
@ngatelLocale: Southern California
"I have the ability to make stoves like you and flatcatgear make. I have the ability to make Caldera Cones and conical windscreens. When do you think I should start manufacturing them to be included in my store?"
When any applicable patents expire.Mar 5, 2014 at 5:00 pm #2079880
Nick, that's when you can start ;-)Mar 5, 2014 at 7:21 pm #2079910
Make Your Own Gear: 'Do-it-yourself tips and tricks, material sources, patterns, techniques, and discussions of how to HACK UP off the market products to make them lighter (and sometimes, better).'
To post a MYOG project without wanting to reveal the specifics of the build for proprietary reasons seems to be nothing more than an attempt to promote a product. I feel this goes against the stated and implied intent of this forum. Should the OP be better suited for 'Gear Deals' ?Mar 5, 2014 at 10:29 pm #2079978
No need for hostility. If there was a mistake, it was an honest one, but I apologize nonetheless. I made the gear myself, so MYOG seemed appropriate. Most of the threads I have started have been MYOG so I just did it again.
Anyone out there know if there's way to re-designate a thread?
What is "OP"?Mar 5, 2014 at 11:05 pm #2079987
I'm wondering, does the ridging method rely on having a wide mouth at the top of the pot? Do you have to get a bunch of tools inside? Could you do it to a bottle? I have a bunch of these Japanese coffee bottles that I really like that would be great even if they just had one ridge in them. They are pretty strong as they are, as they cone and cap at top adds a lot of strength.
The cap on these is about an inch across (estimate, can't find a ruler around here at the moment).Mar 5, 2014 at 11:07 pm #2079988
@ngatelLocale: Southern California
MYOG or some other doesn't make a difference. Let's keep on track here, it's an interesting thread. If there's a problem Caffin or RJ can intercede. If they don't care, then no one should either.Mar 5, 2014 at 11:26 pm #2079990
Adam, my rig requires a wide mouth. It barely fits in the can. It could be made smaller, but I'm not sure it would have the necessary rigidity. 1" is pretty small, though it would be very cool if someone could figure out how to put ridges in an Al bottle.
Thanks Nick, Delmar, Jon. Here is a photo of my milled, drilled, bolted, TIG welded and glued rig:Mar 5, 2014 at 11:34 pm #2079992
Nice piece of Engineering. Yep that would be tough to get in a bottle. Are those little wheels nylon? I bet you could pump out ridged cans quite fast with this rig. Cool :-)
If you want some bottles to play with, maybe I can get a few to post to you (from Japan in the next week or so). Though it looks like the "Coors" bottles in the US are pretty similar that some people use, so probably cheaper just to get them to try first.
If that horizontal square tube "support" was say 15 or 20mm across/diameter, and you just had one "disc" right on the end, you could possible get it inside the bottle by disconnecting the support and angling it. Then reattach the support to the mount and make a single ridge at a time. Better than nothing. With good high tensile steel or chromoly with a thick wall thickness I'm sure it could be made strong enough to do the job.Mar 5, 2014 at 11:37 pm #2079993
@b-g-2-2Locale: Silicon Valley
"Though it looks like the "Coors" bottles in the US are pretty similar that some people use"
I was checking out the 16 fluid ounce aluminum beer bottles in the store today. Coors, Miller, and Budweiser, none of which are my favorite brands.
–B.G.–Mar 5, 2014 at 11:39 pm #2079994
I'm stoked that the best can here is off a black coffee that is actually quite drinkable. Most of the Japanese store coffees (and there are tons to choose from) are terrible. Pretty lucky!
Surely you can find a mate to drink it on your behalf Bob :-)Mar 6, 2014 at 8:10 am #2080050
David, cool rig.
Lot of work, that.
If I need ridges on anything I'll be sending to YOU, not attempting to duplicate!!
I like to work with metal (own a mill) but I don't understand sheet metal much. I'm surprised you can get the ridge by basically deforming the metal from one side. I'd have thought you'd have to push (with wheel) against a valley or trough of some sort. Apparently the "valley/trough" is not necessary as your anvil is flat.Mar 6, 2014 at 8:35 am #2080061
I put a piece of balsa on the anvil, which forms valley/troughs for the wheels to push against.Mar 6, 2014 at 8:55 am #2080068
Clever! That gets you out of having to machine a "trough" mold beneath, with a ball-shaped cutter. I like it. See, that's one of my problems. I start to work with metal and get into the mindset that EVERYthing must be of metal, when (in your case) teflon and balsa are equally useful. I can't help but admire the creative and flexible thinking on your part. Strong work!!Mar 6, 2014 at 3:41 pm #2080259
Well, one thing is for sure. If the plastic lining of the Foster's can is removed there is no possibility of any BPA getting into your water or food.Mar 6, 2014 at 5:05 pm #2080291
@glenn64Locale: Snowhere, MN
"What is "OP"?"
I don't understand how rolling ridges in it, removes the BPA? Did I miss-read somewhere?
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