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MYOG Down Jacket
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Dec 4, 2013 at 4:31 pm #1310590
Hello everyone,
So I stumbled across BPL about 6 months ago while looking for a lightweight backpack for my birthday. After poking around on the MYOG forum for a bit I chose to get a sewing machine instead. It was a great decision and since then I've made all sorts of fun gear and fixed up old clothes and it's been just great.A month or two ago I decided to make a wind shirt which I knew was going to be pretty difficult. I improvised a pattern and it fit terrible. After making another jacket with a few changes and then another with some more changes to the pattern and another,the 4th jacket I made turned out pretty well, so I thought I'd share.
It is a down jacket designed to be worn as a midlayer. It's got 4.6oz of 850 fill down and 3.1oz of Nobul1, thread and a zipper for a total of 7.6oz. There is 3oz down in the body, 1.5oz down in the arms and .1oz down in the collar.
The Nobul1 is so breathable that any kind of breeze cuts right through this jacket. It also lets a lot of down though, may just be because I overstuffed the jacket significantly.
I took it off as I entered a restaurant and little bits of down were floating around the place for the next 5 mins, lesson learned. My girlfriend has banned me from taking it off or putting it on inside our house.
Despite the incredibly messy down leakage, I will probably use Nobul1 again as a liner because of its weight, it's price and it's hand.
-SamHere are some pics….
Dec 4, 2013 at 5:41 pm #2050891WOW! Great work…looks really good!
Dec 4, 2013 at 7:01 pm #2050916yeah, looks good
I have the same problem with Nobul1 – leaks some down. Maybe it's not enough leakage to effect warmth. They say Nobul2 is more downproof
M50 at same weight leaks no down, but not as breathable or comfortable. It has a weird chemically odor, probably the DWR coating which seems very effective, I put a puddle of water on it overnight and the paper towel underneath didn't get wet. With Nobul1, it stayed dry for about 1 minute, and then in a gush, all the water leaked through.
Dec 4, 2013 at 7:55 pm #2050931Sam, Coming from someone who has made 2 down pullovers I must says yours is beautiful. Nicely done. I agree with Jerry the last gen of m50 is extremely down proof and it is highly water/wind resistant. I think it is ideal for down items. I have some first gen m50 that is not nearly as water resistant but still works fine for high fill power down. I equate its down proof equal to my old Montebell down inner. The new m50 is even tighter, it's like no leakage at all. I will say that I really enjoy the first gen m50 against my skin. It's a great material. I'm guessing it is closer to Nobel1.
One question on the jacket, what is the spacing on the baffles. I used 2.75 on my last jacket. It looks likes yours is closer to 2". I'm still trying to determine the best baffle width, looking at common manufactures it is all over the place.
Looks great,
JamieDec 4, 2013 at 9:23 pm #2050970My theory is that the baffle width should be twice the loft
Or some mutiple like that
Or, at least, if you have a smaller loft, then you want narrower baffles or there will be thin places
Dec 5, 2013 at 5:15 pm #2051278Thanks everyone!
I hope at some point to try M50 and Nobul2, I ordered a little bit of Impetus1.1 for the shell of my next jacket. My plan is to use about the same amount of down but only sew half as many baffles. I figure this will allow the down to loft up to it's full potential?
Jamie, your website's awesome. The baffles are sewn 2.35 inches apart.
-SamDec 6, 2013 at 1:18 pm #2051581Nice work! The nobul2 is really nice. I made a quilt with it and am really happy with it. I'm actually just starting a parka with M50 (I think I bought it a while back before the nobul2 was available) and washed it first in some sportwash and it seemed to tame the rather rough hand that it has when new. Overall I much prefer the tigoat stuff, though.
Dec 6, 2013 at 1:26 pm #2051584Does nobul2 leak down? That is, have you packed it into backpack and slept in it and is there more than a few pieces of down?
nobul1 leaks some down. Probably not enough to make it useless, but if I had to do it again, I would not use nobul1. I have 8 ounces of down in quilt. It seems like it's lost 0.5 ounces after 20 nights of usage. It seems like maybe it's losing less now for some reason, but I'll keep weighing it. That could be confused by the fact that it will absorb more or less water due to humidity and it absorbs body oil and dirt.
Dec 6, 2013 at 1:49 pm #2051600The nobul2 doesn't leak any down. I've used my quilt for probably 60+ nights and there might be a plumule here or there but it's good n downproof. For down stuff, it's the best thing I've used (out of both versions of M50, v1/v2 M90, sevenD, and 1.1 oz ripstop). The DWR seems to be great as well.
Dec 6, 2013 at 1:51 pm #2051601Thanks
It says on web site nobul2 is more down resistant than nobul1
Dec 17, 2013 at 5:48 pm #2055359You and Jamie's M50 max pullover have inspired me.
I just ordered some argon fabric to make a hooded full zip version.
Pretty much the same amount of fill as yours but with 3/4 ounce or so in the hood for 5 ounces of down. I'll add an extra inch of fabric to each of the 7 chambers on the liner fabric to hopefully keep it from being so outwardly puffy.
Hoping to keep the weight under 9 ounces.
It will only be used for standing around after a long days hike and while sleeping in so a no frills is fine by me.
Dec 21, 2013 at 5:44 pm #2056692I got my Argon fabric in.
Argon is awsome fabric.I'm going for a box construction instead of sewn-thru.
I figured with the 4.5-5 ounces I'm going to put in, a 1 1/4" baffle would be the best and warmest option. I think it would be easier to sew a baffle onto a piece of fabric than sewing 7 full length lines across the 2 pieces of the body?
Even with double the sewing, there is less chance of messing it up, (I'm good at that).I am also doing a construction technique that gives me a single piece (inner and outer) of fabric for the entire body.
I have everything cut and will sew it tomorrow.
I just need to get hold of some 900 down before I can finish it.I will have it finished before and will bring it to the GGG and will post some pictures when it's done.
Dang, I just realized where I'm going to get my down from. I have 5.4oz of 900 fill in my 9.8 quilt. It is not summer and it is a karo quilt. I will shed a tear while doing it, although I'll get it filled back up in time for summer.
Dec 31, 2013 at 6:20 pm #2059209Almost done with the jacket.
I will post some pictures when done.The box construction is so warm with all that down.
Uniformity is so nice as well.Not sure of the weight.
I couldn't find my scale so did all the fill blind.
Filled each baffle loose then moved the jacket in a way to get an even force on it to be able to tell how full each baffle was, then took out or added from there.
Came out perfect.
Alos couldn't come across a #3 grey zipper so used a heavier #5. -
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