Best Headlamp

[Anonymous]

It seems to me like it would make more sense to get a Petzl or Princeton Tec from REI simply for the fact that if there any kind of defects in the product at any time you can return it. Zebralights get 1 year through the manufacturer only since REI does not sell them.

Both PT and Petzl should have a light that fits your needs on the trail IMO. Not to mention many of them come with a red led for at night in camp which IMO is an important feature which the Zebralights do not have.

[Steve G]

I have no complaints with my Petzl Tikka 2. It's as light as anything else, battery life is good, high setting throws a lot of light, very comfortable and has multiple modes including red. I have dropped it many times on my concrete garage floor with out as much as a scratch.

[Dustin Short]

Whatever I find at an REI garage sale seems to work for me. Less than $10 and usually some dumba$$ couldn't figure out how to change modes (manuals come with them and are also online…). I've got a few BD and Petzl headlamps thanks to this policy and have yet to find a headlamp that is actually broken.

[Phillip Asby]

Anathema on BPL I know – but one Candlepowerforums mantra is two is one and one is none…

My zebralight has been flawless and I've never worried about it in the field. I know there have been some issues at times. But I admit I'd take my Surefire if I was concerned about reliability (no better customer service or warranty in the light business). I generally have at least one backup (photon microlight freedom with clip) and a handheld as well…

But I know I carry more light than most!

As an aside – I do think the Princeton Tec EOS is also pretty bombproof – got it at REI as well.

[Wolf’s Rain]

Hey Mark.

Thanks for the descriptions of the various zebralights. I've been really looking into getting one for my primary headlamp. Zebralights naming system and product descriptions leave my head spinning a bit. If you have a chance, can you give some more specifics about the functional differences between the H600 MKII and the H602? Also, any of you insiders know when they might be releasing cool white versions of all the new lamps? Thanks!

[Andy Stow]

They keep this sort-of up-to-date.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Atedkp7Jhq8wdGY0UTU2TmVwOW9Fc0FfUDFVSHVNS1E&usp=drive_web&authkey=CNqP6KIC&authkey=CNqP6KIC#gid=0

[Javan Dempsey]

I asked many of the same questions not long ago, and I ended up with the Zebralight H602w XM-L

I'm extremely happy with it. The long run times are convenient in counter to the inconvenience of the specialized battery. Even if I mess up and forget to charge the battery, the run times on lower output modes are enough to get me through a short trip without worry.

I did get a backup light that uses standard AA batteries, Eagletac D25A Mini, but have subsequently lost it, at home. ;)

Not much chance of losing the headlamp though, it's big. Wouldn't be ideal for night runs, but I haven't had any prob using it for night hiking or in camp.

The spill beam profile of the standard Zebralight's are pretty ideal for a combo of camp and trail use. I was considering some other options in flood modes, based on the info out there from flashlight obsessives, but most of the info preferring "floody" models for camp use seems to originate from "car camping" types, who don't take into consideration the types of uses we are more likely to encounter, on and off trail.

Anyway, long story short, it's not the lightest option, but it's certainly not the heaviest, and I don't think I could downgrade on output or runtimes at this point. I highly recommend the H600 or H600w (I like the neutral white, but it's a bit weird if you're in a group and the other's have cool white LEDS, so use your discretion here).

[M B]

With a zebralight, if you wear a ball cap, put the holder on the strap in the back, and wear it backwards when you need to use the light at night.

Olite i3S EOS, 0.46oz, clips to hat,~0.74 oz with AAA lithium battery, and 15 hrs @ 20 lumens 80 lumen max.

Hiked about 9 hrs in dark with mine a few weeks ago. I would like more light, 30 is probably better, but 20 is enough, and the simplicity cant be beat. For momentary use, 80L setting is plenty. I cant see needing the 200L of my Z51, so no reason to bring the weight.

[David Thomas]

Remember when we used to carry extra bulbs? And thought the Maglites were pretty well-thought-out because they included an extra bulb in the base?

So, you young'ns: It isn't just 5x the battery life that LEDs give you, it's the essentially infinite "bulb" life. And the shock resistance.

And then there are lithium batteries with twice the capacity at a lower weight than alkaline.

Alkalines used to be the best option – so much better than carbon-zinc.

[Ken Thompson]

Don't forget mercury batteries.

[Derek M.]

Clint,
I've been using the Nitecore Sens AA flashlight for a little while now and I really like it.
http://www.nitecore.com/productDetail.aspx?id=38

I attach it to the brim of my visor with a homemade clip and use it as a headlamp. This seems to work quite well with the added benefit of eliminating the weight of a dedicated strap. The flashlight itself weighs about 1.9oz with a AA NiMH battery installed.

Anyway, you might want to check this inexpensive ($25) option out. In general, the newer models of the single AA battery, regulated LED lights are a really great way to go these days. These lights will give you the most consistent light and best burn time for the least weight, while still allowing for easy battery replacement (I hate those little coin batteries!).

[Dale Wambaugh]

I'm using a Fenix HL21headlamp backed with an Olite i2 flashlight on my pocket survival keychain. Both use a single AA battery. The HL21 is dimable and has a flip up diffuser, so it can light up a trail and still be useful for camp chores and reading in the tent.

Standardizing on single AA battery lights makes for easy replacement and lights that have reasonable output and battery life. You have a chance of replacing a battery in the dark with one cell. Try that with a 3xAAA unit or coin cells. I can carry one spare and still swap between lights as needed.

[Andrew M]

I second this headlamp. Pretty light, 3 settings and the flip up lens is really nice when just doing chores around camp at night or looking for something in your tent. I like the red and find it far more useful than I ever thought I would.

[michael levi]

Petzyl zipka, the band attaches to anything and it's one of the lighter models.

[Delmar O’Donnell]

I can't take the awful LED tint and low CRI light of most "consumer grade" headlamps. Outdoors, it's really important to have some orange and red in your beam. Typical low CRI LED lights drop out orange and red, giving an artificial look to flora at night (like the image below right).

That's why I carry high CRI lights, like the Zebralight. I can "see" better for any given brightness (see photo on left which is high CRI). Easier to distinguish between items at night with high CRI, I don't feel like I'm seeing in low definition monochrome, which frequently happens in vegetated areas at night with a low CRI light.

The inability to "see" with low CRI LEDs is why so many police departments kept old, outdated, dim incandescent flashlights around for so long. When looking for a perp at night, the dimmer, high CRI beam of an incan outperformed brighter, low-definition LEDs. Nowadays you can get high CRI in powerful LED lights so there's no need to carry an incan anymore.

(High CRI = high Color Rendering Index, using special LEDs that have orange and red in the spectrum. Not found in most consumer-grade lights. Last time I looked, there was not a single light available at REI that had high CRI.)

If you haven't used a high CRI light at night, it's hard to describe the difference, you have to experience it. Loads of people have never tried a high CRI and have no idea what they're missing in terms of ability to "see." I will gladly buy a dimmer, more expensive, high CRI light, over a brighter low CRI light.

[David Ure]

Can't yoiu 'see' better because one picture is with a 100 lumen bulb and the other is 140 lumens?

[Joe S]

Does it for me. Got it on sale for less than $30, so very happy.

[J C]

Well I just pre-ordered a Zebralight H52Fw. Price + a set of Eneloops and a charger should be not much over $100. There was no High-CRI option, but if one becomes available I may get another one.

[Delmar O’Donnell]

> Can't yoiu 'see' better because one picture is with a 100 lumen bulb and the other is 140 lumens?

Probably not — the camera's auto exposure will make the two exposures appear similar. What you should notice is the "flatness" of the traditional LED, and the more natural look of the high CRI.

JC, the "w" series (w = "white" or "warm") are higher CRI than the standard "cool," you will very likely be pleased at the natural rendition of the "w". And the "w" gives you a few more lumens than the "c", to boot.

I own Petzels and Fenixes, and they're good lights, but they got retired to the automobiles for backup duty after I discovered warm and/or high CRI lights. I won't buy anything but, and will likely never go back. Someday, every LED you buy will be high CRI. But for now, it's a specialty market.

[Bob Gross]

"Probably not — the camera's auto exposure will make the two exposures appear similar."

Good Grief! That's why they invented manual exposure mode on a camera.

–B.G.–

[Anonymous]

Where do you find stock for these zebralights? They are all out of stock, backordered or for pre-order only unless you want discontinued models.

[Bob Gross]

"Where do you find stock for these zebralights?"

Zebralights has everything except for a few days here and there. Sometimes they are sold on Amazon.com but there are more days here and there.

The last time that I ordered one, I had it in my hands 48 hours later.

–B.G.–

[Mike W]

>> Where do you find stock for these zebralights? <<

Unfortunately your timing is bad. Zebralight has just released a few new products and when they do this they move their existing stock to dis-continued sales. The pre-order is for those people that want to get their hands on the first run of the new models. The first run will typically sell out quickly and then you are into back-order for a while until they catch up.

It's a bit of a marketing game but I must say, with the speed at which LED light technology is changing, I don't blame these manufactures for being a bit shy about ordering large stock quantities. It must be tough keeping ahead of the competition.

[Anonymous]

"I do think the Princeton Tec EOS is also pretty bombproof – got it at REI as well."

+1

Has anybody here besides me tried the VIZZ? It's not the lightest light around, but it is bomber, like all PT lights, and has an excellent feature set. I was very impressed with it this season. A worthy successor to the venerable EOS.

From REI:

Description

•Single 165-lumen Maxbright LED throws a bright white beam up to 90m on high; 2 white 5mm LEDs? output 30 lumens? and reach up to 23m on high
•Also includes 2 red LEDs? that output 15 lumens? and reach up to 20m.; red LEDs? minimize the impact on your night vision
•White 5mm LEDs? are dimmable so you can balance light output and battery life to meet your needs
•3 AAA batteries (included) provide 110 hrs. of burn time for the Maxbright LED; using the 5mm white LEDs?, the batteries provide 160 hrs. of operation
•Switch to the red LEDs? and the batteries will last for 150 hrs.
•Regulated circuitry ensures consistent power output over the lifespan of the batteries
•Large push-button switch is easy to operate with gloves on
•The Princeton Tec Vizz headlamp has an IPX7? rating (protected against water immersion down to 1m for 30 min.)

Made in USA.

The specs don't copy well, but the one downside is that it weighs 3.7 oz with alkaline batteries, according to the official specs. Mine weighs 3.0 oz with lithium batteries.
An excellent option, IME/IMO.

[James Couch]

Picked one up this spring. It has become my goto light for climbing. Very lightweight for it's output and runtime.

[Author]

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