Learning how to use an ice axe this winter near Asheville

[Jeff Jeff]

I just watched a few videos on youtube (back in 2007 where there were just a couple) and went out an practiced. Try an area at a ski resort, but with few trees and a large, flat runout.

[Jeff Jeff]

As for length, the standard rule of thumb for general glacier and snow travel is to get something that hits near the ankle when held in your hand with your arms down. This is for the piolet canne method and it's nice for comfort when using it for long periods of time (mountaineering and glacier travel). For me a 70cm works best. For the PCT where you will rarely have it out for more than a few minutes, I would get something around 50cm or 55cm. It's lighter and it doesn't get in the way when strapped to your pack. I can arrest just as well, but it's not as comfortable when using as a cane for hours on end.

[Richard Fischel]

what are the chances you're going to fall, and what happens if you fall. it's best to error on the side of caution.

[Anonymous]

"From Jeff Lowe's video series on ice climbing: "No one can self arrest on ice."

+1

I was hoping someone would save me the trouble of pointing that out. It pretty much applies to very hard snow(styrofoam) as well, unless you're very, very good with the ax and land in a decent position to execute self arrest when you slip. On either surface, you have almost no time to get the pick planted before you are sliding at a speed that will make self arrest impossible. I've had it happen, fortunately when I was roped up, and know two very experienced climbers who suffered severe injuries on
low angle ice when they slipped while unroped. IMO, if a typical hiker encounters either of the above mentioned surfaces, especially if it is high angle and/or has a bad runout, they would be very wise to either find another route, or wait until the surface softens. Traction devices for the feet can be very helpful, if you know how to use them, but on ice in particular things can still get pretty sketchy. Better to play it cautious and live to hike another day.

[Anonymous]

"how about névé or firn for proper terminology."

True enough, but up here in the PNW pretty much everybody calls it styrofoam. Or at least they did back in the day. You have to admit that, texturally, it's a pretty good imitation of the "real" thing. ;0)

[Diane Pinkers]

Has anyone had any experience with the Black Diamond Whippet trekking pole/ice pick? I think I remember reading that Balls used it on the PCT, but I'd like to know if anyone has actually used it for self-arrest. It seems like a good idea, but will the handle hold up under leverage conditions?

[David Chenault]

A hiking (as opposed to mountaineering) axe will need to do four things: be a cane, self-belay, self-arrest, and chop steps.

A whippet works decently for arresting on softer snow, but can't be used for self-belaying very well due to the basket and flicklock. It's heavy for a trekking pole as well. The only virtue is not having to stow a pole and pull out your axe, but honestly the window where a whippet is adequate but an axe of some kind is needed is very small.

The Corsa has a proper shaft, and belays and arrests well. The spike and lack of mass makes it a bit more difficult to plunge in harder snows, which can be a significant downside. The adze shape sucks for chopping steps (but is good for digging catholes). The Corsa is a good choice for backpacking. I wish they made 80 and 90cm lengths, they'd be true alpenstocks.

The proper spike and adxe on something like a BD Raven is very welcome for anything beyond mild snow climbing. Not likely to be needed by any thru-hiker types.

James, if there's a ski area which would let you practice pre or post season that might be a good option. Typically good runouts and a variety of slope angles.

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