hypoxic training for mountaineering?

[Henry Liu]

Has anyone thought/tried hypoxic training for mountaineering? I know some pro athletes just sleep in tents with low oxygen to simulate higher altitudes. Seems a good idea to make a quick 1-2 day ultralight trips with no waiting around for days/weeks acclimating

Here's one manufacturer:
http://www.higherpeak.com/mag-10.html

I've been wanting to do the big mountains but the trips are like 70days for everest. I'd rather pre-acclimate at home working my regular job, and get up the mountain in 3-4 days. Seems safer too because you can rush up a mountain in good weather rather than chance weather reports for 2.5months.

Any thoughts?

[Ryan Faulkner]

Very interesting product. Definately something that would help in any mountaineering endeavor, But I would not recomend "rushing" up a mountain like everest. It says on the site that it can simulate up to 20,000 feet. Everest is 29,000 feet.

Also, there is alot more to the 70days then just increasing the oxygen in your blood. Acclimatizing on a big mountain also gets you more used to the temperatures, and phisical strains of climbing. Unless you spent the previous week on another 8,000 meter peak, you will not be ready to summit, physically or mentaly.

Even the most elite climbers with ridiculous VO2 levels spend alot of time acclimatizing at base camp. That product, would definately be a valuble addition to the acclimation process. But I would not use it "in-sted of"

I have no experience with high altitude mountaineering, but I have spent a lot of time studying it. And like you, I have a dream of summiting everest, and all the other 7 summits. I may never accomplish this goal, I have other extreme endurance fastpacking goals that will come first.
But if and when I do climb everest, I will in no way rush the process, It is an attainable goal, but one that comes with extreme risks, "Rushing" or not being completely prepared only add to your risk.

I understand your reasoning, but I would recommend trying it out on a "safer" mountain first, and before attempting everest, Denali and cho-oyu would be valuble climbs to have before challenging everest.

Im guessing you are not planning on using a guide company. aNy reason behind this??

[Henry Liu]

I definitely want to do Denali, maybe even this summer. I'm starting small and climbing some Shasta routes in full gear this weekend and will see how they go. I'd definitely go with a guided tour for everest but might just go with an experienced set of buddies for something like Denali and save the $5k for a guide. Figure in Alaska, they'll come get you if you give the coast guard a call on the iridium phone if stuck in a crevice unlike in Nepal when you're up a creek without a team.

[Douglas Frick]

>Figure in Alaska, they'll come get you if you give the coast guard a call…

Recommended reading: Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Pick a year; any year.

[cat morris]

Henry, it takes 60 days to get a permit for Denali & the climbing season is now through July, although the later part of July is said to be tricky as the snow bridges over the crevasses are unstable.

[Graham Williams]

>Recommended reading: Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Pick a year; any year.

Ditto. Or better yet, pick many years.

You get ANAM free with your American Alpine Club membership.

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