Oct 23, 2012 at 4:03 am #1295465
@jshorttLocale: North Carolina
I just finished up a new project, an M50 Primaloft Pullover. The pattern is a modified Thru-hiker Kinsman pattern. The difference is the collar is 1/2" shorter, the chest zip is 2" shorter and the arm girth is 2" smaller at shoulder tapering to 1" smaller at wrist. The is the same pattern I used for my LytW8 down pullover. The synthetic version is 1.8 oz Primaloft sport with gray outer M50 and black inner M50. The finished weight is 6.75 oz (size medium). Not a ground breaking project, but I was impressed by the weight and feel of the jacket. Though I am generally a down jacket fan there are times when a synthetic puffy really shines. Compared to synthetic jackets in the market I think this one serves my needs better than anything I can buy. If interested in a similar jacket, I recommend checking out the kinsman kit at thru-hiker.com.
JamieOct 23, 2012 at 5:13 am #1923844
@thomdarrahLocale: Southern Oregon
Nice work, lighter then my 10.2oz Nano Puff PO and likely equal in warmth.Oct 23, 2012 at 5:56 am #1923853
Looks good. I've been eyeing that kit for a while.Oct 23, 2012 at 8:03 am #1923868
@retiredjerryLocale: Oregon and Washington
That's really light weightOct 23, 2012 at 9:46 am #1923891
@awsorensenLocale: South of Forester Pass
I did the same thing many years ago with a double layer in the front.
Those sleeves are huge from the pattern.
I also made a longer back so the pack would not ride up. With M90 fabric, it came out to 8.6 ounces.
I like yours much better.
Haven't seen too many MYOG projects recently.
Nice job!Oct 23, 2012 at 10:03 am #1923895
Top notch work Jamie. What's the minimum temp you think it will keep you warm?
RyanOct 23, 2012 at 10:11 am #1923898
@gregpehrsonLocale: playa del caballo blanco
Nice work as usual, Jamie. Regarding the size modifications with your down pullover and this one: Did you make a cheap model beforehand to know what kind of modifications to make, or what was your process? If you did, how did you figure how loft would work into the sizing/ fit?
Thanks!Oct 23, 2012 at 3:27 pm #1923966
@jshorttLocale: North Carolina
Thanks for the replies. Let me try to answer a few questions. I have a fair amount of experience with my first M90 Kinsmans so as far as temps go I put it good to about freezing for just standing around. I have used the stock kinsman on a number of trips where I paired it with a Minima vest (3.0 oz primaloft) and found it worked down into the teens with snow and raining conditions. A light merino LS top + vest + pullover + WPB shell worked well in almost any condition I would likely be in.
As far as the process for adjusting the pattern goes I started by basically reproducing the existing pattern by tracing it onto a roll of giant graph paper (purchased at a teaching supply store). I then adjust the lines free handing it. The straight lines are easy. So for the collar all I did was move the base line up 1/2". The sleeves were pretty easy. I just moved the long lines in 1" each at the top of the sleeve and 1/2" at the bottom (wrist). The curved lines are more difficult. The hardest part was adjusting the side curves of the front and back so that the arm girth was now smaller. When the body arm girth shrinks this impacts the sides as well. I started by using a piece of string to measure the length of the arm girth at the sleeve. Next I used the string to determine the length the girth needed to be for the front and back body peices. Then I free handed a new set of side curves so the sides now met correctly. I accounted for all seam allowances and basically confirmed the length of all matching curved lines with a piece of string.
I didn't do any prototyping. I went right from the adjusted pattern to making the down pullover. It turned out perfect. Everything matched as well as the stock kinsmans. I think it was a little luck and lot of just triple checking the length of each line that needed to match. I really have to credit Ayce at thru-hinker for making a great pattern to start with.
I too hope to see more of us sharing MYOG projects. Seems like we have slowed down a lot. With the price of M50 being so good now and the multiple colors thru-hiker offers I think there is a lot of opportunity to make some fantastic items.
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