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Removing printing from beer can


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Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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  • #1222404
    David Lewis
    BPL Member

    @davidlewis

    Locale: Nova Scotia, Canada

    Hey all. I'm making one of my beercan stoves as a gift for a friend… and I was thinking it would make a nicer looking gift without the ugly Heneiken printing on the can… I've seen some stoves where people have a nice aluminum finish… how do they do that? Chemicals? Fine grit sandpaper / buffing?

    #1382616
    Michael Martin
    BPL Member

    @mikemartin

    Locale: North Idaho

    Hi David-

    Fine steel wool and an hour of buffing will do the trick. :-)

    btw, I've found that hour to be the perfect time to consume contents of said can. ;-)

    Polished Beer Can Pot on Ti Esbit Stand

    #1382637
    David Passey
    Member

    @davidpassey

    Locale: New York City

    rough sandpaper, then buffing with steel wool has been the fastest technique for me

    #1382642
    James Pitts
    Member

    @jjpitts

    Locale: Midwest US

    …steel wool. It doesn't take me an hour of buffing, however. Perhaps I am using a grade that is more course or Heineken cans are more heavily painted… I'll have to do EXTENSIVE testing… :)

    #1382643
    george carr
    BPL Member

    @hammer-one

    Locale: Loco Libre Gear

    I just did that 2 days ago with steel wool. You're going to find it much easier while the can is still full. The steel wool gives a polished looking surface, so you'll have to steel wool the whole can or the places where you don't will look dull. Then, admire your handiwork at arms length between *hick* sips.

    #1382645
    Vick Hines
    Member

    @vickrhines

    Locale: Central Texas

    Fine wet/dry sandpaper used wet does it for me. It takes about 30 seconds with 220 grit. 400 or 600 grit takes a little longer, but not much. As George says, clean the cans while they are full for a better job.

    #1382651
    Cameron Reed
    Member

    @cameronjreed

    I have used SOS pads (which are just steel wool with soap embedded into the fibers) I have never though of using the wet/dry sadnpaper, but that sounds like it could definitely take less time.
    It did NOT take me an hour with the SOS pad, but it was a pretty considerable amount of time.

    #1382656
    Michael Martin
    BPL Member

    @mikemartin

    Locale: North Idaho

    Hi Guys-

    Don't take my 1 hour time estimate too seriously. I made that pot a long time ago, and just recall that the polishing took a good bit of work. I didn't have a timer going or anything.

    Also, George has a great point about polishing before the can is opened. I'd forgotten about that. I guess the best way to do it then is assembly line fashion:

    Polish Can 1 while eating pretzels
    Polish Can 2 while drinking contents of Can 1

    Polish Can n while drinking contents of Can n-1 :-)

    Cheers,

    -Mike

    #1382657
    Vick Hines
    Member

    @vickrhines

    Locale: Central Texas

    wet/dry sandpaper is REALLY fast. I run a dribble of water in the sink, wrap the wettened sandpaper around one end of the can and twist the other end back and forth a few times letting the water wash away the debris. The grit is critical. 200 is very fast, but leaves the can looking sanded. 400 is slower, but less scratchy, and 600 will take maybe 5-6 minutes but leaves the can pretty slick. You can even break the paint up with 200 without actually removing a lot, move to 400 to strip the can, then use 600 (or finer) to polish it. I kind of like the sanded look, myself.

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