wood stove
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I just built a wood burning stove. I am fairly new to UL backpacking and this is my first MYOG project.
I dont know if it technically counts as a downdraft gassifier but it weighs just over an ounce (35 grams, not including the GG ti stakes, I would carry these anyways for my tarp). I tested the stove this evening and was able to boil a pint of water in about 9 minutes.
I would love to get one of those bush buddys but I just dont have the money in my backpacking budget at this point in time. I am hoping to use this type of stove as an affordable substitute.
The stove is based on the design of Mark Jurey at:
http://www.csun.edu/~mjurey/pennywood.html
I made the stove from a standard 14.5 oz can of green beans and added 3 GG ti stakes to serve as a pot stand.
I plan to try it out in the field later this spring and will be practicing my fire building techniques at home to make sure I can use the stove in a variety of weather conditions.
Ive included a few pictures of the stove.
This is what I came up with this past fall when I was experimenting with the Downdraft stoves. I like the double wall design better for in order to have the design below work properly you must have a tall windscreen anyway.
Here are a few pics of a 'paint can' wood stove prototype. The outside of the burner is made from a new quart size paint can ($1.99). The inside of the burner is made from a new pint size paint can ($1.49). The pot stand/chimney is made from two recycled tin cans. Both paint cans are used upside-down. The removable 'bottom' might be useful as an ash clean-out or a tinder chamber.
Weight: 6- 7/8 ounces.I don't doubt that it will take many test burns and tinkering to perfect it, but that's another day!
Looking thru bottom of can. (Paint can lid removed for picture.)
Looking down into burner.
Post script: Cones for K-Mart grease pot.
I made the holes with a punch from Harbor Freight. Cost about $25, but it's been HANDY!
The pint can 'hangs' upside down from the top of the stove. Here are the steps I took:
1. Punch holes in the quart can. (I was barely able to fit the can over the punch.)
2. Cut a hole in the bottom of the quart can the diameter of the pint can. (the body diameter of the pint can, not the rim diameter. This gives a tighter fit.) The bottom of the quart can then becomes the top of the stove.
3. Next cut the bottom 1/2" off of the pint can and make snips around the cut edge. The metal between the snips will later be bent over as tabs.
4. Punch holes in the pint can.
5. Hold the quart can with the factory top down and the cut hole up. Hold the pint can with the factory top down and the cut end up. Feed the pint can up through the quart can and through the cut hole far enough so that you can bend the tabs out.
6. Lower the pint can until the tabs rest on the quart can. Drill and pop rivet a few of the tabs.
7. The factory top of the upside down pint can provides the flange necessary to support the wire mesh.
8. The chimney/pot support is assembled essentially the same way.
The purpose of the large cutout in the tin can chimney's side is to improve draft and provide an opening the add fuel to the burner without lifting off your pot.
Here are two more pics.
Looking straight down into the burner. You can see the flange the mesh rests on and the 'tabs' cut in the pint can that are bent out and rivited to the quart can.
Looking straight into the bottom of the stove (With the factory paint can lid removed).
Roger,
Here is a 2D cross section and some pictures in use. It used a lot more fuel than I expected, even for it's maiden voyage. Estimating the BTUs in the grams of fuel used vs the BTUs absorbed by the water, efficiency for the system was disappointing at 10-15%. However, it did appear to burn gases as they rose past the secondary air ports and left just a tiny bit of ash when done. Modifications and additional test will have to wait for another day.
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