Nov 30, 2011 at 3:23 am #1282560
I thought the following should be in its own thread. unfortunately is both a gear idea for manufacturers and possibly MYOG, so I have put in MYOG forum:
Perhaps a stove with solid rigid pipe would have an advantage over a flexible cable
(if don't mind always in liquid mode, even at start up)…
As the canister is always inverted (liquid mode only), it would either need primed (eg with alcohol), or lit according to this site's winter inverted operation instructions and initial flaring accepted. A pre-heat tube or similar is this needed at burner (not shown).
It could be lit outside cone (but on foil floor) then slid in.
Note stove should have no gas carrying structural/connector parts made from plastic (which might soften in use).
1) I found this smaller Camping Gaz torch which can lie on side (presumably after warm up):
so could be lit, then set on side (beside cone) to heat under pot (in cone).
It has quite a long "snout"
NB by on side I would envisage the control valve knob facing away from cone.
Unfortunately weighs 309g, but proves blow torch can run on side (if you think about it, they are hand held, so should need to be able to cope with being non-vertical
(BUT some mention flare safe as an option, so need to check)
I hope it can be lit in position shown, it would be better with control on side.
control knob would need a peg thru it as shown, with matching holes in said plastic knob. Plastic parts look cosmetic, but would need checked.
NB this idea is vapourware and only to be tried if considered as safe.Nov 30, 2011 at 4:52 am #1807051
@jamesdmarcoLocale: Finger Lakes
A gas cone was discussed with trail designs. This was rejected. As I remember, Rand's major objection was the potential for Gas/air build up in the cone leading to popping and burning the hairs off your hand(or worse) if this was at all mishandled. Especially at colder temps, this could be a real problem.
Anyway, your idea will work. I made a larger cone to go over my old climber and it worked quite well on low heat settings. though did require a largish vent to facilitate the key and air inlet. It did overheat on anything but low.
I really like your idea that protects the air inlet from the burner. This eliminates the need for larger vent holes and promises a good deal of efficiency. Well Done!Nov 30, 2011 at 10:19 am #1807167
"A gas cone was discussed with trail designs. This was rejected. As I remember, Rand's major objection was the potential for Gas/air build up in the cone leading to popping and burning the hairs off your hand(or worse) if this was at all mishandled. Especially at colder temps, this could be a real problem. "
I would have thought a remote stove with tall cylindrical windshield would be little different from a cone (I presume a gas cone would need a lot more exit (and input) vents.
"I made a larger cone to go over my old climber…"
For other viewers, I just thought I'd reiterate that my idea is for a remote cannister with the canister shielded (by the shown heat-shield) safely outside the cone. Even, my standard cannister-top-lpg_stove windscreen has huge cut-outs around the cannister, so that cannister is essentially open to air, in addition to a heat deflector (or 2).
Remote stoves would seem more relaxing… except that the flexible hose worries me (irrationally?) hence this idea.
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