I’m gonna go for it!

[William Zila]

I have finally built up the pride to try for a down quilt that is when I can find the time in between school and building packs for customers. I plan to use m55 for the outside and m50 or 7d for the inside, .33 ounce cuben fiber for baffles and 8 ounces of 900fp down . I am going to try for a size identical to my myog synthetic quilts. The reason for using m55 for the outer and 7d inner is based on samples the m55 appears to have a btter dwr and wind resistance but on the inner i can drop "some" weight with 7d i am going as light as i can on this so any weight savings are welcome. i think i should be able to hit a weight of around 12 ounces any tips or things that make red flags pop up ?

[Aaron Sorensen]

To save some extra weight, try this.

If your width at the top of the sewn foot-box is say 40", then use this width all the to the top.

The rest of the quilt width on the bottom flaps do not need as much down and the one seam on each side (going vertically) can be sewn through.

If you have a quilt that is 2 1/2" thick on the top, and the sides are 1 1/2" you will save at least 3/4 of an ounce.

Having baffles on the 40" of thickness also keeps the loft on top as it can not shift down.

[William Zila]

So your Suggesting vertical baffles up from the foot box? I had though about it and it seems like a good idea

[Aaron Sorensen]

No, horizontal baffles on the 40" width of the quilt and verticle for the rest of the quilt.

So if the quilt is going to be 52" you only have an extra 6" on each side and you will have only 1 down chamber on each side. That chamber will be verticle.

if your a skinny guy like me, my width would only be 38".
I also like my quilts to be at least 58" in width, (as that extra bit doesn't require much down).
So I will have 10" that protrude out on each side. These sides will be seperated into two 5" vertical baffles and will be filled with just over half the down thickness as the rest of the quilts 38" width horizontal baffles.

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