Jun 28, 2011 at 8:20 pm #1276056
@magillagorillaLocale: Southwest Ohio
DNA stove professionals, help me out here. This may or may not be a good idea. I’m trying to get this stove pot screen combo to work.
The pot is a Miller Lite can bottle (in inches) 7 1/4 Tall 2 5/8 Diameter Bottom 1 3/8 Diameter Top
The Burner is bottle cap (from a Venom energy drink bottle, which fits the can threading) and is about 9/16in Tall and the above mentioned 1 3/8in Diameter. The burner volume is 2.5 TSP or .42 floz or 12.3 ml.
The screen is aluminum flashing and it’s 14in long by 8in tall.
The screen is held together with paper clips and is roughly 4in in diameter when closed. There are 1/4 in holes punched around the perimeter of the bottom about 3/4in spaced.
2 Ti pegs run through the screen to hold up the pot. Test heights for the pegs are at 2, 2 1/2 and 3in heights from the bottom of the screen.
I can get a 16oz boil using 1 1/2 refills on the burner so .63floz of fuel. Not very efficient and a pain to refill (literally if you grab the screen to soon).
Has anyone tried anything like this? There are several advantages to the plan. The cap is the burner which also makes the can useful for carrying water. Having the burner screwed on to the pot prevents it from getting bent or lost. Just wondering if this is a dead end effort.
My burns are extra sooty, so I think I may have a dirty fuel problem. I’m using Sunnyside DNA.
I like the idea of using narrow pots but I cannot get a burner solution that works for me. I will take simple and light over efficient. Most of my burners, cat, Zelph Venom, pop can, all have a wide flame pattern and don’t work with small diameter pots.
Any suggestions?Jun 28, 2011 at 8:56 pm #1754199
@b-g-2-2Locale: Silicon Valley
If your burns are extra sooty, that suggests one of the following:
1. Insufficient air to the flame
2. Wrong flame gap to the pot, or pot is too cold
3. Low grade fuel
–B.G.–Jun 29, 2011 at 10:34 am #1754350
> The pot is a Miller Lite can bottle (in inches)
Sounds similar to the Budweiser bottle, but with a screw cap, rather than crown cap.
> The Burner is bottle cap (from a Venom energy drink bottle
I've used similar-sized bottle caps for bottle 'pots'. The small flame is usually a good match.
I generally use an inward-facing jet ring red bull burner for normal pans, but even this tends to spill flame up the side of a bottle.
> 12.3 ml.
Ought to be enough to boil about 400ml of water.
> The screen is held together with paper clips
The slot and tab joints I use on my clone might be useful here, save losing the paper clips, and less faff to use.
A clone isn't a bad solution to the problem of pot support and windshield. Have a look at this thread, especially the later pictures. The silicone wrist band (in 'junior' size) is a possible solution to supporting the can. Otherwise, a ring of another bottle rammed onto the 'shoulder' of the bottle, and opened up at the lower edge also works, if somewhat precariously.
A clone also helps trap any heat spilling up the side, making the system more efficient. But, as Matthew observed on the thread above, you need to provide adequate exhaust holes at the top, taking account of the small diameter of the top end of the cone. Hence his request for a modification to the script.
> Test heights for the pegs are at 2, 2 1/2 and 3in heights from the bottom of the screen.
That may be a little too high. Try 1" gap between burner and pot.
> The cap is the burner which also makes the can useful for carrying water.
DNA in the UK (methylated spirits, or 'meths') has multiple-whammy deterrents: purple dye, methanol and Bitrex. So I wouldn't want to use a burner as a water bottle cap in the UK, as Bitrex does a very good job of tasting bitter… I'm very careful not to get meths on my hands when doing 'proper camp cooking', as even traces of Bitrex taints the food.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.