Tieouts

[Dwight Shackelford]

Does anyone have a photo or some detailed description of what you use for tieouts on a tarp?

I’m talking about the ones in the center of the walls, not at the edge. The ones that will increase headroom and take some of the sag out.

Dwight

[E. A.]

Suggestion: Cut 2″ (or any size) square of webbing. Then sew two parallel button holes in center of square. Remember to use a seam ripper to open button holes (before attaching to tarp!!) Attach as desired to tarp. Thread guy line through both button holes and stake.

How to exactly reinforce the square “patch” to the tarp is debateable. One might want to add an additional square patch of fabric beneath it.

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[E. A.]

Next suggestion: Take a piece of cord that is long enough to stretch across the tarp add enough lenghth for two monkey’s fists. Tie a monkey’s fist in both ends.

To Use: On either side of tarp (assuming you are using two tie outs/lifters) Hold MF to inside of tarp, reach around and gather outside tarp around knot (much like the wrapper of a Blow Pop). Now slip a two half hitch or taut line hitch around outside of material (much like a noose, sorry for the graphic image) and cinch then stake.

Clear as mud? Let me know. I might be able to add a sketch if needed.

Other comments? I am thinking to use this method to create a ridge line in a tarp to which I would suspend a mosquito net. Why an artificial ridge line, you ask? Because often using a ridgline causes the material to gather at the ends (see BKL review of Campmor’s Silnylon poncho).

[Vick Hines]

The simple solution is stitch a fold of nylon grossgrain ribbon or a strip of folded nylon fabric in the center of a 6″ disk of compatible fabric. If the tarp is silnylon, use sylnylon of the same weight. You can glue the silnylon disk directly to the tarp and forget about stitching. Squeegee a very thin layer of 100% clear silicone sealant on both the tarp and the patch, put them together, squeegee the bubbles out and put a heavy book on top for 24 hours.

It you insist on stitching, you don’t have to hem silnylon, just zigsag around the edge – after the sealant sets. Then seal again on the outside. Glueing first replaces pinning and ensures a neat, waterproof job.

Ray Jardine’s directions for side pull outs is to stitch a disk wherever you want it and cut 2 parallel slits in it about 1 inch apart. The piece between the slits becomes the pull-out. It can’t get any simpler than that, and, surprisingly, it works. I don’t like the fact that water collects between the patch and the tarp. But that’s the only down side I know of. It is the lightest pullout.

[Dwight Shackelford]

thanks for the ideas and feedback everyone.

[E. A.]

One benefit of learning the monkey’s fist is that no sewing or glueing is required at all, and multiple configurations are possible. I like the way that Ray Jardine spoke of knowledge being lighter than any equipment.

Really one does not need dedicated line for tying the knot. This eliminates the need for a single use line. Also learning this skill allows you to use tie outs on impromptu shelter material such as drop cloth, etc.

Of course you could always use a rock picked up off the trail, in which case you spent no money, and only enough time to learn the knot. Plus, a rock could potentially puncture the silnylon. A knot would… knot, HA!

Slap happy from homework. Sorry. Wish I were on the trail.

[Author]

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