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Buckle slipping repair, a la Roger Caffin
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Home › Forums › Gear Forums › Make Your Own Gear › Buckle slipping repair, a la Roger Caffin
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Feb 14, 2010 at 6:01 am #1255252
Several weeks ago, Roger pointed me toward this website with his fix for the annoying problem that all of my packs seem to have– the shoulder straps loosen as I walk, so I have to give each on a quick tug to tighten it every few minutes. Annoying, to say the least.
Yesterday I finally got around to putting some extra webbing onto the straps for my Granite Gear Nimbus Ozone. I figured I'd try this one before my MLD Exodus and GG Vapor Trail, which I plan to use a lot this summer on the PCT. After several false starts, hours of cursing, and stabbing myself more times than I'd like to admit (I'm not much good with a needle and thread), here are my results.
As I said, I don't do gear modification projects often, so if anyone has experience with this, I'd love some input.
It seems so far that the repair is working a little too well. It's pretty difficult to tighten or loosen the straps as I would normally while wearing the pack, so I'm guessing they won't loosen by themselves anymore. It also seems like the stitches are the cause of this: I can't get them flat enough to not catch on the buckle.
So, any thoughts anyone? Thanks!
Feb 14, 2010 at 8:38 am #1573649Why did the situation exist in this Granite Gear product? Did they use an inferior buckle or thread the webbing through it incorrectly? Did you overload the pack to cause this? Or is it only a tiny bit of slippage that is normal? I could understand it if the product was old and worn out.
–B.G.–Feb 14, 2010 at 10:02 am #1573675Roger gives his explanation on the website above… basically the webbing being too smooth to catch on the middle bar of the buckle. It's the only explanation I've heard so far. Maybe there's another.
It started happening after only a couple hundred miles on my Nimbus Ozone, and the same with my MLD Exodus, so it doesn't seem to be specifically Granite Gear's issue. I hear about it most often with Granite Gear packs, which might just be because I sometimes ask other GG owners if they have the same problem.
It happens at all load levels as far as I can tell, and it's not like the strap just slides though the buckle. Maybe a couple inches every mile or so, but that's still enough to be annoying if you're going a long way.
Feb 14, 2010 at 10:14 am #1573679I was wondering what to do for my exos 58, i have the same problem when i have a 12 to 15kg backpack ( thats the maximum i carried in it ).
I had no long trip since last summer and didnt had to fix this.
But i am leaving in 2 months for Patagonia and with 7kg of food for 10 days i would have the same problem again.I measured the part of the strap i use from having just a Tshirt to a few layers for winter and just ended sewing 2 thin 15cm straps over the existing ones.
Its too late for this week end, now i need to fill the backpack and see if its still slippinG.
Feb 14, 2010 at 11:46 am #1573702Ryan: Rather than using a flat seam stitch try a whip stitch around the outside edges. You should be able to get a much tighter stitch that way. The only way I can see a flat stitch working is with a machine or needle and at least 10 stitches per inch. IMHO
BJFeb 14, 2010 at 1:45 pm #1573735BJ, thanks for the advice, but you're speaking a bit of Swahili. What's a whip stitch? And will I be able to do it without stabbing myself in the eye with the needle? ;)
Feb 14, 2010 at 5:17 pm #1573815OK, so now the strap does not slip. That means we have two data points: no extra webbing => not enough lock on the buckle; full-weight extra webbing => too much lock on the buckle.
But this does suggest it might be worth while finding some intermediate-weight webbing and trying that?
Yes, I do use a lighter webbing in such cases – about half the weight of the conventional 1" webbing used on packs. I had to scour a variety of fabric shops to find several weights to experiment with. It's available …
No, it is not the sewing catching on the buckle. Not a chance!
The stitches themselves – are a bit long imho. But then, I prefer to use a machine.
Cheers
Feb 14, 2010 at 5:39 pm #1573824I have found that on some UL equipment, the light weight webbing used may be BOTH, too smooth and or too thin. The constant slippage can become VERY annoying. I usually resolve this by simply removing and replacing this webbing all together. I find this method to be both faster and much more pleasing to the eye. If done with care one is hard pressed to even notice a repair has been made at all.
Remove the offending webbing, about one inch or so, from the end where it attaches to the shoulder strap. Carefully sear the remaining end with a match. Use the piece of webbing that you have just removed to measure the new thicker and or more coarsely woven piece of webbing that you will be substituting and then add an additional two inches to it's measured length.
Cut the new webbing to this length.
Place the new piece of webbing under or over, [your choice here], the one inch piece still remaining on the shoulder strap. Sew. Again it's your choice of attachment method here as well. I usually just use a straight stitch and sew a square just a bit inside the edge all the way around. I'll go around two or three times and then sew an X inside the square from corner to corner several times back and forth. You could also bar tack if you wish.
Carefully sear the other end of the new webbing and and fold once or even twice and bar tack. This is to prevent the strap from inadvertently slipping back through the end of the buckle.
That's it! All done
Peter
Feb 14, 2010 at 5:50 pm #1573826You can try different buckles too.
Or add a keeper buckle or piece of velcro.
Feb 15, 2010 at 3:29 am #1573939Yikes. I wish I'd started playing with this a little earlier. I leave in less than a week for a week-long backpacking trip, and a few days after that one for the much bigger one. I guess I'll bring my sewing kit, which isn't much– just one needle and some thread. But if I find enough spare time I can probably try a few of these fixes.
Speaking of which, what do you guys think are the ideal threads and needles for this job? I don't have a sewing machine, so this is just by hand. The needle I'm using takes some hard pushing to get it through two layers of webbing, so this has already been a very time consuming process.
Roger: The reason I say I think the stitches are getting in the way is because when I can get the newly beefed-up webbing to pull through, it seems to pull through in short bursts roughly corresponding to the length of the stitches. My first try was much shorter stitches, and I couldn't get the strap to move at all. With the longer stitches it's a bit easier, but still not practical. Do you have any leads on websites where I could find the lighter-weight webbing? Or should I try to find some fabric shops in person? That might be tricky enough as it is out here.
Peter: I had thought of just replacing the webbing entirely, but I'm a little afraid of the "no going back" fixes. I'm not confident enough in my sewing skills to do repairs like that, although maybe I should just try it sometime anyway.
David: Velcro sounds like it could be a pretty simple option. I may have to keep that one in mind…
Feb 15, 2010 at 5:30 am #1573942Feb 15, 2010 at 5:51 am #1573944Were you drunk :P
Feb 15, 2010 at 6:41 am #1573957The close stitchs are going one way, the other way i was holding the sewing machine reverse button in one hand and the backpack in the other :p
Feb 15, 2010 at 4:00 pm #1574137Fred, that doesn't look bad to me. Especially if it works. Where did you find such thin webbing for the added bit?
I think I'm going to try Peter's technique of replacing the strap entirely, unless someone can tell me it's not a good idea. I sometimes work with some folks who sew sails & rigging, so I can call in a favor on wednesday and get them to do a few quick stitches for me.
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