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Homemade Trekking pole
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Feb 21, 2006 at 1:56 pm #1350951
I just got off the phone again with the folks over at Goodwinds. After talking with him for awhile, he thought the wrapped CF poles would be too thin walled for our applications, and he recommended the pultruded instead. He also mentioned trying golf club shafts instead, saying they would be stiffer and more durable. To those that have tried golf club shafts, do you find they flex quite a bit? Thats my only concern…
Feb 23, 2006 at 5:57 am #1351106I ordered a pair of the carbon shafts we’re curious about (48″ long, 0.395″ shaft dia) from Goodwinds. They should be in at the end of the week or early next. With shipping they cost about $22. I was also told they are very stiff; though she didn’t mention how they fair as a rock deterrent.
Given they weigh more than Lighttrek or Stix poles, I’m hoping they are overbuilt enough to overcome any inferior construction. I’ll post an evaluation when they arrive.
Jay
MYOGFeb 23, 2006 at 6:21 am #1351108Jay,
That’s my exact hope. It could save the rest of us from scrounging for usable trashed golf clubs…
Ben
Feb 23, 2006 at 6:30 am #1351110Ben,
My concern with golf club shafts is the length. With fixed length poles, you really want them to be a little longer than your ideal length for an adjustable pole (at least I do) for those times when you really need them (descending steep terrain). Can you get golf club shafts long enough?
Jay
MYOGFeb 23, 2006 at 8:38 am #1351116Jay,
I assume this ‘experiment’ is going to turn into an article, complete with pictures / challenges / suggestions for use and such?
Feb 23, 2006 at 10:43 am #1351132Well, maybe. :) The experiment has to work, first of all. I haven’t ordered tips or grips yet. I’m waiting to see if the material is suitable. In this particular example of making trekking poles, Ryan Jordan has previously written a fairly thorough, though not step-by-step, article for making your own trekking poles out of aluminum or carbon fishing rod blanks. (BTW, I tried to source some blanks about a year ago and found it tricky; because, you need them to be about 0.39″ where they insert into the tips, while still having proper length. Incidently, on-line rod suppliers don’t provide shaft diameter at 120cm from the butt end, and tapers vary depending on the rod’s action. If you have a local rod supply store, you might have better luck. Also, the cost of fishing rod blanks is certainly higher than the cost of kite rods, probably because they are manufactured with a particular action in mind.) I will take lots of pictures as I assemble mine, and if we can add to Ryan’s article with new information or better instruction, we might write it up.
The MYOG section is still evolving. I am no longer doing gear reviews for BPL. My free time is now devoted to the MYOG section, outdoor pursuits, and my family. In the short term, expect to see more site development for the MYOG section. We are building a MYOG main page with links of interest to do-it-yourselfers. My vision (albiet, long range) is for us to hash out ideas through the MYOG forum, develop MYOG articles from the better designs, and perhaps create kits or at least provide supplies in the BPL store for making the gear. Although the carbon trekking poles may not make it into an article, another forum topic likely will. Thanks for your interest.
Jay
MYOGFeb 23, 2006 at 10:51 am #1351133Jay,
I just got back from my local golf shop. The guy took me in the back after I told him what I was looking for, pointed to a 55 gallon drum full of used golf shafts, and said, “I’ll sell you two shafts for $11.50.” I had a blast going the them, I actually was able to find two matching poles! Most had an average length of between 41″-44″. A tip will add 1″-1.5″. Should be long enough for most folks. These things are VERY durable, almost no bend, and were 2 ounces a piece. Should come in under 4oz. with tip and handle. Good luck on yours.
Feb 23, 2006 at 11:33 am #1351140Well, maybe. :) The experiment has to work, first of all. I haven’t ordered tips or grips yet. I’m waiting to see if the material is suitable. In this particular example of making trekking poles, Ryan Jordan has previously written a fairly thorough, though not step-by-step, article for making your own trekking poles out of aluminum or carbon fishing rod blanks. (BTW, I tried to source some blanks about a year ago and found it tricky; because, you need them to be about 0.39″ where they insert into the tips, while still having proper length. Incidently, on-line rod suppliers don’t provide shaft diameter at 120cm from the butt end, and tapers vary depending on the rod’s action. If you have a local rod supply store, you might have better luck. Also, the cost of fishing rod blanks is certainly higher than the cost of kite rods, probably because they are manufactured with a particular action in mind.) I will take lots of pictures as I assemble mine, and if we can add to Ryan’s article with new information or better instruction, we might write it up.
The MYOG section is still evolving. I am no longer doing gear reviews for BPL. My free time is now devoted to the MYOG section, outdoor pursuits, and my family. In the short term, expect to see more site development for the MYOG section. We are building a MYOG main page with links of interest to do-it-yourselfers. My vision (albiet, long range) is for us to hash out ideas through the MYOG forum, develop MYOG articles from the better designs, and perhaps create kits or at least provide supplies in the BPL store for making the gear. Although the carbon trekking poles may not make it into an article, another forum topic likely will. Thanks for your interest.
Jay
MYOGFeb 24, 2006 at 6:57 am #1351220My carbon kite shafts arrived last night. I’m pleased with them, considering the cost. They have more flex than my Stix. I haven’t seen Lighttreks first hand to make that comparison; but have read that Lighttreks flex a bit. Although they flex, they still support plenty of weight vertically.
The material is hard, not fibrous, and would hold up as well as my Stix for beating rocks and against abrasion. The “grain” does run vertically along the shaft.
The actual weights of my 48″ poles are 2.3270 and 2.3260 ounces, suggesting fairly consistent manufacturing. This weight calculates to 65.9 g, weighing less than their advertised weight of 67.8 g.
The 0.395″ size is perfect for insertion into trekking pole tips. If you wedged these into a crack and really torqued on them, they could certainly break. However, I expect you could build two sets of poles out of these for the price of a low end aluminum set.
Jay
MYOGFeb 24, 2006 at 9:33 am #1351226Great info, Jay. Good stuff.
Feb 24, 2006 at 11:29 am #1351237That sounds great! That makes a pair of CF poles an obtainable piece of equipment for me now. Thanks Jay.
-EricFeb 24, 2006 at 1:18 pm #1351251Eric,
Your welcome. I did a little research into Gossamer Gear’s Lightrek poles. The Lightrek shafts are about 1/3 the weight of the kite shafts. They have their shafts specially made, and the manufacturing likely improves the strength, allowing them to reduce the material used. I re-read our review of the Lightrek poles and notice a great photo of Doug Johnson leaning on the poles, and the poles bending in response. In trying to bend these shafts, I don’t think they are quite as flexible or at least on par. You can check out the photo yourself by opening the Lightrek Review.
The possibility of breaking a shaft is there, but for a mere $10 to $15 for a shaft replacement…
Jay
MYOGMar 6, 2006 at 5:51 am #1351917I bought a pair of fishing rod fore grips (4-1/2″ long, 3/8 ID), and a pair of Leki replacement tips. Here are the specs for the materials (average weight for each, prices include shipping):
Shafts: 2.3265oz, $22.98
Tips: 0.40925oz, $14.86
Grips: 0.4875oz, $7.73Doubling and adding the weights and adding the costs yields 6.4465 oz and $45.57. I’ll put these together this week and give them a test this weekend.
Jay
MYOGMar 13, 2006 at 4:49 am #1352434I finished my poles last week, and played around with them over the weekend. These are really cool. I thought the 4-1/2 inch long grips were going to be too short, but they worked out fine. Here’s a couple of build tips for those who can’t wait for the article.
Cutting with a hack saw works, but the fibrous nature of the carbon tends splinter. I scored mine first with the hacksaw all the way around before cutting through. I glued the grips on using Gorilla glue and the tip using hot glue. I think I will be able to remove the tips by inserting the poles into very hot water for a while, if the need ever arises.
Oh yeah, and the final weight was 3.07 ounces per pole!
Compared to my BMW Stix…The Stix are definately lighter, stiffer, and more comfortable to grip.
Jay
MYOGMar 13, 2006 at 9:28 am #1352447Jay – thanks for the comparison to the Stix. How would you compare them to the GG Lighttrek Plus poles?
Ben
Mar 14, 2006 at 6:01 am #1352515I’ve only seen the GG poles vicariously through Doug Johnson’s review. In his article, there is a picture of Doug bending the poles. I believe the poles tested used GG’s lighter, thinner shafts, which have been replaced with stiffer ones (I believe? someone correct me if I’m wrong). I don’t think the kite poles bend as easily as Doug’s photo shows. However, I don’t really know how much torque Doug is putting on them either.
All that to say, I have no idea how these compare to the GG poles :). My observations: They are about 6.2 ounces for the pair, so a bit heavier. They have a fishing grip handle, so not as comfy. But the shafts ~may~ be stiffer (or at least stiff enough for $8 a piece).
Jay
MYOGApr 11, 2006 at 9:20 pm #1354653I’ve found a weakness in the carbon kite rod material that wasn’t apparent upon first inspection. While they are reasonably stiff, they are very brittle when stepped on. I stepped on one of the cut off scraps laying on the floor and it crushed easily. I tried the same with a piece of carbon fiber from a Stix and it did not. My kite poles survived one harsh trip without failure, but I was careful with them. I’m taking them out again this weekend to intentially abuse them in some rocky terrain. We’ll see how they hold up…
Jay
MYOGApr 12, 2006 at 1:39 pm #1354691Thanks for the heads up, Jay. Knowing this weakness, would you still consider these poles worth the $55 or so saved over GG poles or Ti Goat poles?
On a side note, where did you get the fore grips for your handles? I haven’t seen anything good locally. Did you get them online?
Thanks again,
EricApr 12, 2006 at 5:13 pm #1354705Jay,
One more tip, don’t torque them.
Robert
Apr 23, 2006 at 3:58 pm #1355360Marion Watts Jr wrote “I just got back from my local golf shop. The guy took me in the back after I told him what I was looking for, pointed to a 55 gallon drum full of used golf shafts, and said, “I’ll sell you two shafts for $11.50.”!
Either English golf club repairers are more generous than Americans, or I was lucky and Marion unlucky, because I was shown a big pile of shafts and told “I usually just throw them away, so take as many as you like – no charge”. I am now ready to start lots of experimenting re. pole length and grip/strap arrangements.
I also have enough shafts to experiment with using them for cross struts (as in TarpTent Rainbow, etc.), end poles (at the low end of tents)and packframes. Any other suggestions gratefully received.
Jay Ham discounted the use of golfclub shafts because he thought they were too short. I think he missed the point that these hollow shafts are tapered, so the thin end of one will fit into the thick end of another and jam tight if you push it in far enough. I will be experimenting, but my first guess is that an overlap of 3 inches (i.e. 3 inches of the top shaft inside the bottom shaft) will be ample to fix an extension. Because a 44 inch shaft weighs 2 oz., I expect that for 2 1/2 oz. including shaft extension and a dab of epoxy to fix it securely, I will be able to produce the longest pole Jay could reasonably want.
David
Apr 24, 2006 at 5:53 am #1355376David,
You can’t beat free! Good for you. I have been very pleased with my golf club poles. I have done some pretty good off-trail hiking with them, really putting them to the test, and they have done great. Good luck.
Apr 24, 2006 at 9:33 am #1355386Marion, glad to hear your poles are working well. Would appreciate hearing details such as total weight, what you did for handles/straps and how tall the poles are (in relation to the distance from ground to your elbow. I think you said earlier that you were planning to use standard Leki tips.
“Can’t beat free”? The real winner will be the first to get a golfclub repairman to pay to have his old shafts taken away.
David
Apr 25, 2006 at 6:09 am #1355429Eric,
Good question above. I’m not sure whether the price difference verses durability is worth it yet. Mine have survived 3 canyon trips so far, which in remote Arizona and Utah equates to trailless boulder hopping. Also, I did break one of my Stix shafts (mostly my fault), so just because the carbon wraps around the shaft is no guarentee. I’m going on another canyon hike this weekend. Wrapped shafts would be better if we can source the material for a reasonable cost. I haven’t found a source yet.
I found mine foam grips at Cabela’s online. I went with their 4.5″ long fore grips, which are just big enough.
Jay
MYOGApr 25, 2006 at 6:14 am #1355430David,
I might have been too hasty in my assessment of golf shafts. With the overlap, you might have something that will work. I don’t think everyone will find such a great deal on the shafts, and buying 4 to get the length might be cost prohibitive, but if you can get them cheap it sounds like a great idea. Sorry if I was down on the idea in the beginning.
Jay
MYOGApr 25, 2006 at 8:21 am #1355433Jay,
Good point about the extra cost. Looking back at what I wrote I notice that it was written with the arrogance of one who has just obtained 70 shafts for £0. Sorry.
However I would suggest trying your local club repairman. Marion may just have come across an unusually mean one, and as far as I know the shafts are usually thrown away rather than sold.
David
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